Aqua Lung i300C Dive Computer Review

The Aqua Lung i300C provides more features than your typical entry-level dive computer, yet its price is similar to if not lower than them, making it such a value-packed product. This wrist dive computer is designed to be versatile with functionality that is useful for all levels of divers, even more than its predecessor the i200C. Whether it’s numerous dive modes, gas switching, a user-replaceable battery, or wireless Bluetooth connectivity, the i300C is packed with goodies. Read on to find out what else this model has to offer.

Aqua Lung I300c Wrist Dive Computer with Bluetooth Black/Blue
  • Wirelessly interact with your i300C via the latest Bluetooth Smart technology using your mobile device, the free DiverLog+ app (available for iOS and...
  • 4 operating modes. Air, Nitrox, Gauge (with run timer) and Free Dive (tracks calculations to allow switching between DIVE and Free)
  • User-changeable battery and data retention. Maintains settings and calculations between battery changes

Aqua Lung i300C Features

Display

One crucial feature of dive computers is if they are legible underwater, and the large display of the i300C and its strong backlight makes it so. The two buttons located below the display are easy to press and access, and they are what you use to navigate the interface with. Whether you are diving during the day or at night, or in low-viz conditions, the screen is illuminated enough to show the crucial dive information even without a dive light.

With that said, compared to some other dive computers such as the Suunto Zoop Novo, the i300C’s display is somewhat smaller. It also doesn’t have a dot-matrix screen, so its legibility can certainly be better. However, any shortcomings in its display is more than made up for by its other features.

Automatic Water-Activation

Hate manually activating your dive computer? The i300C can be water-activated and will turn itself on when it detects it has been submerged underwater. Of course, you can manually turn it on yourself using the two-buttons on its side which are easy to press even with gloves on. Simply hold one of the two buttons down, enter the water, and then release the hold to manually activate it.

With that said, there is no “Off” button on the i300C. It will simply go to sleep after a period of inactivity. After two hours of inactivity, it will shut itself down to conserve battery.

Automatic Altitude Adjustment

Yet another automatic feature is its altitude adjustment. In other dive computers, you are limited to a fixed range of altitude ranges, and you have to select the proper one yourself. With the i300C, it can detect the exact height above sea level and automatically factor this information into its calculations. This ensures that your dive profile is always accurate and eliminates the potential for user error. Divers who frequently travel to dive sites at various altitudes will love this.

Algorithm

The Aqua Lung i300C uses a modified version of the Buhlmann ZHL-16c decompression model. It provides a visual N2 graph so that divers can see when their tissues are reaching critical saturation points.

This algorithm has various conservative factors so that divers can adjust it based on their level. The conservatism factor will adjust how it should calculate the NDL. Since the altitude adjustment is automatic, this information is already factored into the calculation without any input from the user’s part.

The Buhlmann decompression model is one of the most respected in the diving community and is often used by tec divers for dive planning. As long as you follow its recommendations, you will be able to safely dive within your limits. The i300C will still recommend safety stops (and remind you to take them with its alarms). However, by adjusting the conservative factor, you have some flexibility in manipulating your bottom time. The Buhlmann algorithm can even handle repetitive dives and consistently keep you safe for days that are jam-packed full of diving.

Wireless Bluetooth Connectivity

It wasn’t that long ago that you had to purchase a separate (and expensive) cable just to be able to transfer your dive data out. Nowadays, more and more dive computers are starting to adopt Bluetooth technology, and for an entry-level dive computer like the i300C to do so is simply amazing.

Compared to the alternative, using a cable, Bluetooth is so much better. The USB cable is a separate expense and one that you can easily lose. Furthermore, you have to connect the dive computer to a computer using the USB cable. When you’re on vacation or on a liveaboard, it’s not fun to be lugging around a laptop.

With Bluetooth connectivity, you can simply install the DiverLog+ app on your smartphone or tablet, and wirelessly transfer your dive data to your preferred smart device. Once on the DiverLog+ app, you can easily generate a report and display the information in graph format. This information can be analyzed and used for future dive planning.

Additionally, you can remotely adjust the i300C’s settings using your smart device. This is a godsend for those who are dissatisfied with the i300C’s two button navigation and its interface. It’s much faster and convenient to control the settings from your smartphone instead, without scrolling through endless menus.

If you want, you can even attach images to your dive reports. You can then share the report on social media. That means sharing depth, times, and amazing images of your dives with family and friends. Compete with them, make them jealous, or just let them know what you’ve been up to on your vacation using the DiverLog+ app.

Multiple Operating Modes

Most entry level dive computers only have air and nitrox dive modes, and even the nitrox mode is probably up to 50% oxygen. Not so with the Aqua Lung i300C. It comes with four operating modes: air, nitrox, gauge, and freedive. Furthermore, its nitrox mode supports up to 100% oxygen.

In air mode, the i300C provides standard dive information like your dive time, current depth, N2 levels, water temperature, ascent rate, and NDL. Nitrox mode ups the functionality by also providing ppO2 data and numerous alarms if any safety violations occur.

Even though the i300C allows gas-switch between three gas mixes, it is not intended for decompression diving. If you go past the NDL, the algorithm will try to bring the diver back to the surface. If you do plan on using it for decompression diving, use it as a backup by setting it to gauge mode. In this mode, it will track only the dive time and depth without calculating NDL.

Lastly, few dive computers have a freedive mode, but the i300C does. When activated, the computer will provide numerous alarms which will provide divers information on their dive time, depth, and countdown time, as well as if they are reaching critical nitrogen levels. The i300C’s algorithm can even help you plan a day where you can both scuba dive and free dive safely.

User-Replaceable Battery

You can replace the i300C’s battery yourself easily. Simply purchase a battery replacement kit with O-rings, and you can replace the battery at home or abroad. It even retains data about previous dives. Included in the box is the tool that is required to safely access the battery compartment.

Being able to replace the battery yourself saves you from having to send it in to a service center. It’s also a godsend if you are on a vacation or liveaboard and the battery suddenly dies on you. Just bring the battery replacement kit with you and perform the swap yourself. This is an excellent feature for people who are often diving in remote areas or locations where a service center is not available.

Aqua Lung i300C vs. Mares Puck Pro and Suunto Zoop Novo

We are specifically looking at how the i300C fares against the Mares Puck Pro and Suunto Zoop Novo because they are all big display computers with a similar price point. The comparison between the Aqua Lung and Suunto is particularly apt because Aqua Lung used to be part of Suunto.

When Aqua Lung and Suunto went their separate ways in 2016, it was around this time that Aqua Lung released the i300c. Just based on features alone, the i300C appears to surpass the Suunto Zoop Novo in almost every respect, and is available at a lower price too.

Comparing the displays, the i300C has a smaller screen, whereas the Zoop Novo has a larger dot matrix screen for better legibility. The Zoop Novo has four buttons compared to the i300C’s two, and the Puck Pro’s single button. More buttons means more chances of confusion, but once memorized, allows one to navigate the menus faster. The i300C’s and Puck Pro’s respective two and one button setups can be more difficult to navigate the menus with.

WIth that said, there’s a lot going on under the hood of the i300C. It has automatic altitude adjustment functionality, Bluetooth connectivity for easier updating of firmware and transferring of dive data, and four modes including a freedive mode. It’s clear that the Mares Puck Pro and Suunto Zoop Novo are outclassed in this area.

As far as aesthetics go, none of them are particularly stylish, and will probably only be used for diving. The i300C looks most like it could pass as a digital watch, whereas the Puck Pro looks too plain and the Zoop Novo looks most like a dive computer. If you really want to maximize your investment and wear your dive computer in daily life, the i300C is the one that can double as a sports watch the most.

For diving, the i300C uses a Buhlmann-based algorithm, and both the Puck Pro and Zoop Novo run RGBM decompression models. The Buhlmann model is better-suited for more advanced divers, but can also be used by beginners. Therefore, the i300C can continue to service you for longer as your skills as a diver improve than the other two.

As an example, the i300C provides more detailed information regarding one’s no-decompression limit (NDL). It displays a visual-graph on the screen which changes in real-time as the diver ascends and nitrogen is released from the tissues. The Zoop Novo and Puck Pro simply display a number of minutes remaining before the diver reaches their limit. We’ll go into more detail about its decompression algorithm in a later section.

Lastly, Bluetooth connectivity is such a massive improvement for a dive computer. In the i300C’s case, not only can you transfer data; you can also remotely control it using another device such as your smartphone. It makes changing settings so much easier out of the water. Neither the Puck Pro nor Zoop Novo have this.

While these trio of dive computers are all marketed to beginners, the i300C just has more features and can grow with the diver. Its price point is attractively low, and you will be hard-pressed to find an equivalent or better dive computer in a similar price range as the i300C.

Summary

Aqua Lung I300c Wrist Dive Computer with Bluetooth Black/Blue
  • Wirelessly interact with your i300C via the latest Bluetooth Smart technology using your mobile device, the free DiverLog+ app (available for iOS and...
  • 4 operating modes. Air, Nitrox, Gauge (with run timer) and Free Dive (tracks calculations to allow switching between DIVE and Free)
  • User-changeable battery and data retention. Maintains settings and calculations between battery changes

Whether you are a beginner or an underwater enthusiast, the Aqua Lung i300C provides a little something for everyone. It has some advanced features like freedive mode, automatic altitude adjustment, gas-switching, and its advanced Buhlmann algorithm make it an ideal choice for recreational and casual divers as well.

The Bluetooth connectivity makes it so convenient to backup and analyze your dive profile. You can even change the computer’s settings from your smartphone. This means you save money by not having to purchase a cable that you could easily lose. The i300C is already an affordable device, and when you consider that many other dive computers might as well add an extra $70 dollars to their price because they require a cable, then you’ll realize what a deal you’re getting.

To add onto that, the i300C has a user-replaceable battery that can retain your data even after the battery has been removed and replaced. Most dive computers lose their dive data once the battery is removed. And if that device needs a cable to backup its data, then think of how much of a hassle that is to deal with. With the i300C, it’s just a simple matter of opening it up, replacing the battery, and continuing on with diving.

There’s lots to like about the Aqua Lung i300C. It’s an entry to a mid-level dive computer that is available at a great price. If you can deal with its small display and two-button navigation, then you are getting one of the best deals on the market.

Best Backup Dive Computer – Never Dive Without One

On a dive trip years ago, my trusty Perdix died on me. On another, the replacement battery failed. Thankfully, these incidents happened near the end of my trip. I had considered what would have happened if they failed at the start, and concluded that I would have wasted two precious days of diving. Now, I don’t dive without a backup.

These are just some of the reasons why having a backup dive computer is so important. In this article, we will discuss the benefits of having a backup dive computer, provide our recommendations of the best ones, and go over the criteria we used to make our list.

Our Top Picks:

Risks of Diving Without a Backup

If your main dive computer suddenly fails, you have to deal with a whole host of issues. When diving daily, a dive computer barely clears to a de-saturated level when left overnight. Also, each dive you make should be measured as part of a series so that a dive computer can create the most accurate dive profile.

Any break in this crucial process, and your replacement dive computer will not have the most accurate information to monitor or plan for subsequent dives. As such, even though getting a replacement via renting is possible, it’s not recommended because the fresh dive profile will be inaccurate.

Furthermore, when there is such a gap in the available data, the standard procedure is simply to surface and wait 24-48 hours before diving with a replacement computer. If you have easy access to the dive site, it’s not a problem. If you’re on holiday, each day is costing you a lot of money. With a backup dive computer, if anything happens to the main one, simply swap over to the spare and continue diving as usual..

Do You Need a Backup Dive Computer?

If you want to be prepared for the worst, then you should bring spares of anything critical. That means extra O-rings, mask and fin straps, wire straps for attaching gear, dive computer batteries, or even a spare backup computer. Put all of these key items in a small box, and you can be set to handle almost any unexpected equipment failures.

Having these items on hand can be the difference between calling off a dive that you planned and packed for, or allow you to continue diving using your backups. As advanced as dive computers are, sometimes they just fail. You may one day find that your expensive dive computer has turned off, possibly never to turn on again. This can happen in the middle of the dive or between dives.

Standard safety procedures are that you should surface immediately and take a day or two off from diving. If you live by the dive site, this isn’t an issue. But when you’re on holiday or a liveaboard, this is an expensive price to pay for a busted piece of hardware.

Loss of dive time isn’t even the biggest issue. Remember that a dive computer’s primary purpose, if nothing else, is to keep you from getting bent. If you end up diving deeper than originally planned, diving more frequently, or surface despite being in the computer’s “caution” zone, you are flirting with DCS. On top of that, if you’re overweight, out of shape, or elderly, you are even more susceptible.

That’s why you should have some kind of a backup device so that you have an extra margin of safety and can continue safely diving if your primary dive computer suddenly fails. It doesn’t even have to be a dive computer; any device that can be used as a bottom timer and a depth gauge are enough of a substitute for a backup dive computer.

Best Backup Dive Computers

Cressi Leonardo

Cressi Leonardo, black/grey
3,003 Reviews
Cressi Leonardo, black/grey
  • A single button Dive Computer makes it effortless to set Air, Nitrox and Gauge modes. Ideal for beginners in Scuba Diving. It is easy to use and easy...
  • FO2 adjustable between 21% and 50%. PO2 adjustable between 1.2 bar and 1.6 bar. CNS oxygen toxicity graphic indicator.
  • Three levels of user adjustable conservatism. Visual and distinct, easy-to-hear audible alarms

The Cressi Leonardo is one of the most affordable dive computers with a simple design, making it a great choice for a backup dive computer. It is easy to navigate the interface with its large, informative display while maintaining a sleek profile that is travel-friendly. It stows nicely into your BC pocket and can be worn as a wrist watch.

For simplicity, the Cressi Leonardo only has a single button located at the bottom of the device. With just this one button, you can toggle through the menus and hold down to make a selection. Since there is only the single button, you won’t even run into the issue of forgetting which button does what. Furthermore, the interface is simplified so that it can be easily navigated with one button.

Despite being compact, the Cressi Leonardo has a large display that lets you see all of the important information at once. You can check the time, depth, decompression status, dive mode, surface intervals, battery indicator, and ascent rate at a glance. The display is high-definition, with an edge-to-edge LCD and sharp lines for legibility. You can easily monitor your vitals with this display. Our only complaint is that the backlight could be brighter.

As for dive modes, the Leonardo has: air, gauge, and nitrox modes. The air dive mode (21% oxygen, 79% nitrogen) is water-activated, so you don’t have to worry about fumbling with your backup to get it started. You can also set it in gauge mode so it acts as a bottom timer. Nitrox mode lets you dive with up to 50% oxygen.

All in all, this is a great, affordable choice for a backup dive computer. It has only the features that you need and no more. This helps keep the price low for beginners to use as a starter dive computer, and of course it can also be used as a backup device.

You can check our full review of the Cressi Leonardo by clicking here.

Oceanic B.U.D.

Oceanic B.U.D Backup Dive Computer - Orange
2 Reviews
Oceanic B.U.D Backup Dive Computer - Orange
  • Air and Nitrox mode
  • Water or push button activation
  • Modified Haldanean/DSAT database and Pelagic Z+

While any of the dive computers listed in this review can work well as a backup, the B.U.D. from Oceanic is specifically designed to be a backup device. Rather than relegating your old dive computer to the role of a backup spending $1,000 on a high-end one, perhaps you can get a few more years out of it as your primary by using the B.U.D. as your backup.

What exactly makes this so good as a backup? To start, it doesn’t have a strap to reduce bulk, and it comes with a built-in clip so you can attach it wherever you have a D-ring. It’s so small that it stows easily in your BC pocket as well. And of course, it has the basic features that you want, including dual algorithms and nitrox up to 50% oxygen.

To simplify its operation, the B.U.D. has a one-button operation to navigate its menus. The two algorithms you can switch between are Pelagic Z+ and DSAT. You can also switch between air and nitrox dive modes.

One thing we love about the B.U.D. is its battery “hot swap” feature. It will retain its current data for a window of 8 seconds while the battery is being replaced. Other dive computers will simply wipe your dive data clean upon battery removal if you haven’t backed them up. When you’re in the middle of a vacation, this simply is not feasible so a hot swap feature is appreciated.

Mares Puck Pro

Mares Puck Pro Scuba Diving Wrist Computer Carbon Fiber
482 Reviews
Mares Puck Pro Scuba Diving Wrist Computer Carbon Fiber
  • Dive Log: 36 hours/50 dives
  • Nitrox Programmable (21-50%)
  • Ascent rate indicator

The Mares Puck Pro is yet another affordable dive computer with a simplistic one button design similar to the Cressi Leonardo. You honestly can’t go wrong with either one. Both the Mares Puck Pro and the Cressi Leonardo have durable designs that can endure rough environments. Their prices are comparable, and so are their features.

The large display and one button navigation drastically simplifies its operation. Within a few minutes of playing with it, anybody can intuitively understand how it works. The Puck Pro has three modes: air, nitrox, and gauge. The gauge mode is called “bottom timer” on this model. Its batteries are user-replaceable so you can replace it before your next trip to ensure it won’t fail on you mid-dive.

A difference between the Puck Pro and the Leonardo is in their logbook memory. The Leonardo can store 70 hours of data to the Puck Pro’s 36-hours. The Leonardo is also slightly smaller so it can stow away more comfortably. However, the Puck Pro provides gas switching whereas the Leonardo doesn’t. Overall, the Mares Puck Pro is very comparable to the Cressi Leonardo, so you can go for either one.

Check out our full review of the Mares Puck Pro here.

Aqua Lung i300C

Aqua Lung I300c Wrist Dive Computer with Bluetooth Black/Blue
  • Wirelessly interact with your i300C via the latest Bluetooth Smart technology using your mobile device, the free DiverLog+ app (available for iOS and...
  • 4 operating modes. Air, Nitrox, Gauge (with run timer) and Free Dive (tracks calculations to allow switching between DIVE and Free)
  • User-changeable battery and data retention. Maintains settings and calculations between battery changes

The Aqua Lung i300C is a fantastic entry-level dive computer that can also double as a backup. It has an interface that is intuitive and versatile, with some advanced functionality for those looking for features above the entry-level.

With the i300C, you have access to four modes which allow you to dive with both normal and enriched air. These modes are air, nitrox, gauge, and free dive mode. The i300C is water-activated, so if you enter the water without any particular mode selected, then it will default on air diving mode.

Next, the interface of the i300C can be navigated with only two buttons. Additionally, this dive computer has an automatic altitude adjustment feature to configure the algorithms based on your height above sea level, which it automatically detects.

We also liked how the i300C has wireless bluetooth connectivity so that you can easily update its firmware and get the latest features. You can also easily transfer all of the dive-related data to your smartphone using the DiverLog app. This way, you don’t have to worry about losing your data when you change the user-replaceable batteries. Also, you can use the phone app to change the settings on your dive computer if you find it more convenient.

Overall, the Aqua Lung i300C is a small and compact wrist dive watch with slightly more features than an entry-level dive computer. It stows nicely into a BC pocket and has a large enough display for you to easily check on the current dive data.

Oceanic Geo 2.0

Oceanic Geo 2.0 Wrist Computer, Slate Blue Grey
  • 2 nitrox mixes to 100% oxygen, deep stop with countdown timer, intuitive user interface with step back, time, date & temperature
  • Audible alarms with user acknowledgment, gauge mode with run-timer, history mode and 24 dive/99 free dives on-unit log book
  • Last dive display: max depth and dive time, diver-replaceable battery with data retention, user upgradeable firmware

The Oceanic Geo 2.0 is a classic, tried-and-true dive computer that you can’t go wrong with. As a backup, you are getting quite the bang for your buck. The Geo 2.0 is small and comfortable enough to be worn as an everyday watch. It has a puck design with four menu navigation buttons around the outside bezel.

Looking at the display, we found it to be easy to read from with each piece of information organized neatly and concisely. Its backlight is bright enough to be read even in low-vis conditions. With the four navigation buttons, there is a possibility of forgetting which does what. However, once you are accustomed to it, it provides more functionality with less button presses compared to one or two button devices.

Furthermore, the Geo 2.0 allows you to switch between two dive algorithms for greater compatibility with your main dive computer. These algorithms are the Pelagic DSAT and the Pelagic Z+ (based on the Buhlmann ZHL-16C). The Geo 2.0 has four operating modes: Watch mode, Norm (Air and Nitrox), Gauge (bottom timer), and Free (for freediving). The nitrox mode supports two mixes up to 100% oxygen.

The biggest downside to the Geo 2.0 is its small logbook memory which only records 24 dives. Also, some of the graphs can be difficult to read from the display. However, overall the Oceanic Geo 2.0 provides great value as an entry-level to mid-range device, and also as a backup dive computer.

Scubapro Digital Depth Gauge 330m

Sale
SCUBAPRO Digital 330 Wrist Gauge, Metric
  • Data includes actual and maximum depth, ascent speed, dive time in minutes and temperature.
  • Auto on/off feature means it’s always ready to dive after a quick self-test.
  • Variable ascent rates are displayed in a percentage and with a fast ascent warning.

This is not a dive computer, however it can be a great backup to one. It is a depth gauge and bottom timer in one. It’s been around forever (since 1989), it lasts forever and it’s cheap enough to be replaced without much hassle. On top of its depth and timer functionality, the ScubaPro Digital 330m also provides ascent speed and temperature data.

With a massive 330m (1,082 ft) water resistance rating, you never have to worry about if this device can withstand the water pressure. It automatically activates in the water and turns off of it, so you can just focus on diving while this thing keeps working in the background. The built-in memory can store data of your last 9 dives for future review and planning.

Whether you’re a beginner or a veteran tech diver, the Scubapro Digital 330M can be counted on to track and display your dive data no matter what the conditions are.

Which Backup Devices Should You Get?

If you have the funds for it, you can literally just buy two of the same dive computer and use one as the primary device and the other as a spare. With that said, this may be too costly of an expense, or perhaps you would rather have a smaller dive computer or a cheaper alternative in which case you have a few options.

First things first, whenever you upgrade to a new dive computer, don’t retire the old one; it may be past its glory days, but it hasn’t outlived its usefulness. Keep it around as a backup! If it is an older product from the same manufacturer as your new one, or if it uses the same algorithm, then there should be little to no discrepancies in its calculations and it is thus a viable backup.

Keep in mind, when diving with a main and backup dive computer, to bring both computers on all of your dives. This allows them to accumulate the same data and build up an accurate dive profile. Otherwise, the calculations that your backup device gives will be inaccurate because it doesn’t have enough data to work with.

You don’t even necessarily need a backup dive computer. A simple, analog dive timer (also known as a dive watch), and an analog depth gauge should be adequate and will let you log the dive. There are even dive watches with built-in depth gauges so you can have both in one device. Combine that with a dive slate, and you have a perfectly sufficient scuba setup.

It’s still recommended that you end your current dive and head back to reassess your predicament as soon as possible. However, with a dive watch and depth gauge, you have the ability to perform subsequent dives, albeit with less data.

Why You Shouldn’t Rely on Your Dive Computer

Whenever a dive computer fails and you’re relegated to an analog backup, you must ponder the question: was I relying too much on my dive computer? There was a time when dive computers didn’t even exist. Now they are an invaluable piece of scuba equipment, but it has also made many divers lazy. They let the dive computer tell them what to do and when and they no longer think for themselves. Whenever a dive computer fails, it’s time to go back to scuba diving basics.

First, for deep dives, you should already have an ideal of how deep you plan on diving and approximately how long your bottom time will be. Of course, monitor your SPG to know exactly when you should surface. However, just having an estimate of these numbers can make the difference between a successful dive and a failed one.

For each dive, note down the maximum depth and time of that dive on a wrist-mounted writing slate. You should have something like this from when you took your first dive course. This way, if the dive computer suddenly fails, you can use these numbers as a reference and go on subsequent dives with just a dive watch and depth gauge. You will go no further than the previous max depth, and end your dive around the same time noted on the writing slate.

If you have a spare dive computer handy, then it’s just business as usual. However, analog bottom timers like a dive watch are a viable alternative and they are cheaper than buying a second dive computer.

Furthermore, the main point still stands. While modern dive computers can do complex calculations that the human brain cannot compete with, and they are generally reliable, you should still have a mastery over scuba diving basics. A dive computer should be an extra layer of security on top of your repertoire of skills, and should not be used as a crutch.

Best Backup Dive Computer Buying Guide

Brand

When selecting a backup dive computer, it’s worth noting that any computer from trusted manufacturers such as Shearwater, Oceanic, Suunto, Scubapro and such, are completely safe.

Furthermore, when upgrading to a new dive computer (or purchasing a backup), it’s recommended that you buy a product from the same brand as your old one. Dive computers from the same manufacturer often use the same algorithm to calculate your saturation. They also have the same dive time and surface intervals – key features of any dive computer.

When you are diving with two dive computers each from a different brand, try to find ones with similar conservatism levels. Unfortunately, since dive algorithms are trade secrets, it can be difficult to compare dive computers from different brands. At the very least, try to get dive computers that run the same algorithm. If not, then your guess is as good as ours as to the calculations it’s doing.

Next, even if you buy a “budget” computer for a backup, you can be sure that its quality and reliability is no less safe than your main one. There will be little to no discrepancies in the dive profile it creates. In the event that your main dive computer fails, your backup dive computer will have virtually identical data and calculations ready for you to resume diving as if nothing happened.

This begs the question: what exactly are you paying for when getting an expensive dive computer? You’ll generally get air integration, better displays, more points of data tracking, and other nice-to-haves. While the backup computers we recommend do not necessarily have all or any of these features, they will still provide the basic options for you to safely dive at an affordable price.

Size

Most of the time, you won’t need to look at your backup. If you’re bored and want something constructive to do during a safety stop, you may want to look at it to compare its readings against your primary. Otherwise, it’s going to spend the majority of the time tucked stowed away in your BC pocket. You might also attach it to low pressure hoses or wear it on your other wrist for easier access.

Wherever you decide to place it, make sure it’s small enough to be out of the way and that it doesn’t snag onto anything. Smaller watch dive computers can help maintain a slim profile so that you can keep it with you at all times without increasing drag.

Water-Activated

It’d be a pain having to manually activate two dive computers at the start of each dive. Try to get a backup dive computer that will start tracking your dive data on its own so that you don’t need to worry about it.

Display

Even though the backup dive computer should ideally be compact, it must also have a large enough display so that you can read from it with a mask on, potentially in low-vis conditions underwater. That means that the font should be legible, the layout clear to understand, and the backlight bright enough (and easy to activate) so that you can read it at all times.

User-Replaceable Batteries

The batteries on most dive computers can be easily replaced by the user. It’s up to you to decide when to change the batteries. We’ve heard of divers who replace the batteries on their main and backup computer at different times so that they don’t both die at the same time. Some divers change the batteries before each trip.

Keep in mind that depending on the dive computer, removing the battery may wipe all of the data currently stored on it. Be sure to backup the data to your phone or computer before replacing the battery. Some dive computers can retain the data between battery changes, which is convenient.

Alarms

You may not want your backup computer to have loud alarms. Some models allow you to disable most or all of the alarms on the device. Others provide haptic (vibrating) alarms so that you can disable the beeping and flashing, but retain the haptic alarms if you so choose.

Lockout Features

A big no-no, particularly if you are an experienced diver, is getting a dive computer with an automatic lockout feature. How it works is if you ascend too quickly or miss a required decompression stop, then the computer will lock itself so that you are forced to end the dive.

The lockout “feature” was designed with good intentions, but it has done nothing but make a lot of divers very angry. It’s like if your car decided to shut itself off because you went over the speed limit. Imagine spending hundreds of dollars for a sophisticated piece of equipment that decides to send you to timeout for not listening to its instructions like an overbearing parent.

Suunto dive computers are infamous for locking out their users. There is a joke that you shouldn’t even shower with a Suunto dive computer on your wrist because you’d risk locking it out. Obviously this is greatly exaggerated, but the point stands that it’s probably not a good idea to use a Suunto device for a backup.

Furthermore, some divers have found that they were forced to rely on their backup computer because their primary one locked the user out because they ascended too quickly. It’d be really bad if both of your dive computers had this feature (i.e. you brought two Suunto devices); then you’d really be SOL.

Travel Tips

When packing your dive computers, consider putting your primary dive computer and your backup in separate bags. This way, if airport security decides to hold onto one of your bags and deliver it after your flight, or the bag gets lost/delayed, you’ll still have one dive computer in another bag to use.

Best Backup Dive Computer: Summary

Dive computers are a crucial scuba diving tool these days. Instructors will recommend a dive computer as one of your first purchases if you’re just getting started. However, dive computers are a costly piece of kit, and now you are being told you may need a second one? If you are looking to get yourself an affordable dive computer and you don’t want to take out a second mortgage, there are still options available which we discussed in this article.

In our list of recommendations, we provided some affordable options that can be used as a backup dive computer. Furthermore, we even provided some alternatives to dive computers, which are dive watches and depth gauges. Dive watches are generally more affordable and some of them even have a depth gauge built-in. Otherwise, you can get a dive watch and depth gauge separately, and the cost should still be less than a dive computer.

You may be wondering if a second dive computer is worth the expense. The answer is a resounding YES. Whether you are judging this decision from a financial cost point of view, or a safety point of view, having a backup dive computer is very much worth it.

Imagine going on an expensive vacation or liveaboard only for your computer to die at the part way through. Without a backup dive computer monitoring your exact dive profile, you are expected to end the dive and take 24-48 hours off from diving to desaturate. Even when you get a rental replacement computer, you’ll have to start a fresh profile which may be inaccurate for the first few dives.

If you simply had a backup dive computer, you can just swap to your backup and continue diving with no issues. Think about how costly it is to miss out on 1-2 days of your vacation or liveaboard; it’s likely much more expensive than the cost of a cheap backup dive computer. This is one of those situations where it may be cheaper in the long run to spend more money now.

Even with just a bottom timer and depth gauge, you can technically continue diving if you use a decompression table to calculate how deep you can dive, how long you can stay at that depth, and when you should perform safety stops. This is what divers in the past had to do before dive computers became mainstream, so basically you’re going old-school.

Whether you decide on getting a backup dive computer or use a dive watch with depth gauge, the point is, you need to have some kind of redundancy to stay safe and save money in the long run.

Best Reef-Friendly Sunscreen to Preserve the Reefs

After being cooped up indoors all week, few things are better than spending a relaxing day out in the sun. However, you don’t want to overdo it; you have to protect your skin against the sun’s UV rays which can cause cancer and rapidly age your skin. Furthermore, you shouldn’t be wearing just any sunscreen; it should also be reef-friendly meaning it doesn’t contain any toxic chemicals that can harm the coral reefs.

Shopping for a reef safe sunscreen in a market flooded with expensive brands with dozens of hard-to-pronounce scientific ingredients and confusing labels can be a daunting task. That is why we have simplified the process for you by researching and rounding up the best reef friendly sunscreens so that you can focus on enjoying your day off, instead of deciphering the labels on each eco-friendly product.

In the next sections, we will go over why it is so important to wear reef-safe sun protection and the harmful effects of conventional sunscreen on the environment. Then we discuss the factors to consider when researching sunscreen. Lastly, we provide a list of our recommended reef-safe sunscreen that adhere to the criteria we outlined. If you want to skip straight to our review, then click here.

Our Top Picks:

What You Should Know About Sunscreen UV Protection

Sunscreen protects your skin by blocking UV rays. There are two types: UVA rays and UVB rays. UVA rays cause your skin to age faster. UVB rays cause your skin to get sunburnt. Exposure to either one for prolonged periods of time increases your chance of developing skin cancer.

All sunscreen offers protection against UVB rays, but not all of them protect you against both UVB and UVA rays. The ones that do are known as broad spectrum sunscreen, and this is the type of sunscreen you should be looking at for total sun protection.

If you can’t remember which UV ray does what, think of the “A” in UVA to mean aging, and the “B” in UVB to mean burn, and you should have an easier time remembering.

What Does “Reef-Safe” and “Reef-Friendly” Mean?

The sunscreen you get should not only protect you from both UVA and UVB rays, but it should also preserve the coral reefs. There is currently no agreed-upon definition or regulation of what the terms “reef-friendly” and “reef-safe” mean. Thus, brands have a lot of leeway on marketing their product as reef-safe.

Therefore, it is up to us to do our due diligence. We must be well-informed on which ingredients are toxic, and which aren’t. Then, we must check the label to ensure that none of the toxic ingredients are found in the product you are thinking of buying.

Toxic Ingredients to Avoid

Did you know that the largest human organ is our skin? Yet, many people mistreat it by neglecting to wear sunscreen, or wearing sunscreen with toxic chemicals. Reef-friendly sunscreen is not only good for our oceans, but also our overall health. When shopping for sunscreen, check the label and make sure it does NOT contain the following ingredients from the “HEL List”:

  • Oxybenzone (interrupts coral reproduction resulting in coral bleaching)
  • Octinoxate (causes coral bleaching)
  • 4-methyl benzylidene camphor 4MBC (an ingredient proven to cause coral bleaching which is legal in Europe and Canada but not in the USA or Japan)
  • Octocrylene
  • Triclosan
  • PABA
  • Parabens
  • 4-Methylbenzylidene Camphor
  • Homosalate
  • Any nanoparticles or nano-sized zinc or titanium
  • Any form of microplastic

Another major consideration when shopping for sunscreen is the size of the particles. Nanoparticles are an important factor in whether a product is reef-safe or not. If there are nano-sized ingredients (<100nm), then the reefs can absorb these ingredients and potentially die. You need to look for non-nano products instead.

Furthermore, avoid sunscreen containing mineral oil, or petrolatum, which takes years to biodegrade and are harmful to marine life during that time.

lone coral reef

“Eco-Friendly” Sunscreen

Now that you know what ingredients to avoid, you have to worry about another problem: products deceptively marketing themselves as reef-friendly when they actually aren’t. This is known as “greenwashing”, where companies take advantage of technicalities or provide misleading information to trick customers into purchasing their product. This is a technique often used in beauty products.

Just because a product has the words eco-friendly, sustainable, green, reef-safe/reef-friendly, cruelty-free, and vegan doesn’t necessarily mean what you think it means. As we mentioned, you must read the label to see if it contains any of the ingredients listed in the Ingredients to Avoid section. It’s important that you know whether a brand genuinely cares for the environment so that you can trust their products.

Next, you should look for sunscreen that is water-resistant so that it does not wash off your body as quickly. This is good not just for the ocean, but for better sun protection. “Water-resistant” sunscreen will last up to 40 minutes, and “water-proof” sunscreen lasts up to 80 minutes. Read the product label to see how long that specific product can last before it must be reapplied.

Lastly, find a sunscreen that is biodegradable. This means its ingredients will quickly and safely break down in the water before it can affect the marine ecosystem.

Types of Sunscreen

We have been using the term “sunscreen” pretty liberally, but there are actually two categories of sun protection products: absorbers and reflectors.

Absorbers are what is commonly referred to as sunscreen. These products protect the skin from UV rays by absorbing them before they reach the skin.

Reflectors are commonly known as sunblock. These deflect the UV rays from the skin.

Both types of products are made with numerous chemical compounds, and it is up to us to determine which ones are reef-friendly and which ones aren’t.

Some people will have allergic reactions to their sun protection product. That doesn’t mean that they are incapable of wearing sunscreen. They are probably allergic to a specific ingredient used by the product. Try a different product that uses different ingredients. Typically, people with sensitive skin should use sunblock instead.

Sun Protection Factor (SPF) Rating

You may have noticed that the various sun protection products have an SPF rating. What does it mean? SPF stands for Sun Protection Factor, and the larger the number, the better its effectiveness against UVB rays. Most SPF ratings are between 15 and 30, and higher-end products can have an SPF rating of 50 to 100.

Despite the seemingly large difference between SPF-15 and SPF-100 sunscreen, all sunscreen within that range is effective. This study states that “SPF-15 or higher is the recommended blocking strength, and manufacturers can label it as reducing the risk of skin cancer and early skin aging.”

From that same study, they found that “SPF-15 can block 94% of UVB radiation, while an SPF-30 can block 97% of UVB radiation.” The difference between SPF-30 and SPF-50 sunscreen are negligible: 97% versus 98%, only a 1% difference. At SPF-100, 99% of UVB rays are blocked, so as far as effectiveness goes, anything above SPF-30 gets severely diminishing returns.

To provide the best protection, look for a broad spectrum sunscreen that can block both UVA and UVB rays. With that said, none of this matters if the sunscreen is quickly washed off as soon as you enter the water. You must also look for a water-resistant sunscreen that will stay on you for longer. You should also be reapplying sunscreen at least every 30 minutes.

Best Reef-Friendly Sunscreen: Recommendations

Stream2Sea Reef Safe Sport Mineral Sunscreen

STREAM 2 SEA SPF 30 Mineral Sunscreen Biodegradable and Reef Safe Sunscreen, 3 Fl oz Non-Greasy and...
  • The organic ingredients of this sunscreen lotion act as a physical shield that provides protection on the surface of your skin against both UVA and...
  • Water resistant for up to 80 minutes, this mineral sunscreen is for people who like to dive, snorkel, or for those who generally enjoy the beach.
  • Prevents after sun skin burns and irritation.

The Stream2Sea Sunscreen is a broad spectrum, reef-safe sunscreen that is very effective at protecting your skin from harmful UVA/UVB rays, while protecting the reef at the same time. The company is very eco-conscious; they are one of the few companies that bothers to test the impact their product has on coral reefs and marine life to ensure that it is not toxic to them. This product performs well in both higher and lower temperature environments.

There are many variations of the Stream2Sea sunscreen to choose from: their tinted and untinted versions, as well as SPF-20 and SPF-30 versions for both. The SPF-20 untinted version has a thinner, smoother consistency that appears very white out of the tube, but dries much less white. The SPF-30 variation has a thicker consistency and is less white on the skin. We like seeing the white color because it gives a visual indication of how much is remaining and when it needs reapplication.

Next, the tinted versions are similar in application, sun protection, and ingredients. The only differences are the presence of some iron-based coloring so that it can match nearly every skin tone, for those who aren’t fans of the white hue. However, it seems that the iron easily stains light colored clothing. In fact, it will probably stain everything you touch. It comes off easily enough with some soap and light scrubbing, but this issue is annoying enough that we recommend staying away from the tinted versions.

Furthermore, the Stream2Sea sunscreen uses a non-greasy formula that is very water-resistant. It should last for up to 80 minutes in the water before reapplication is needed. However, it is easy to scrub off in the shower using soap and a washcloth. Reapplication can be done on both wet or dry skin; it may even work better on wet skin to be honest.

Lastly, whether you use the SPF-20 or SPF-30 versions, both should be more than adequate for protecting your skin over the length of a regular snorkeling session. If not, you can always reapply it, however the Stream2Sea sunscreen lasts a very long time. We found the SPF-20 version will give your skin some more color compared to the SPF-30 version. It also has a very faint scent, though it is technically unscented.

If you are an avid snorkeler who wants to spend a lot of time in the sun while doing your part in preserving the environment, look no further than the Stream2Sea Reef-Safe Sunscreen.

Active Ingredients: 8.8% Titanium Dioxide (Non-Nano) Inactive Ingredients: Deionized Water, Aqueous Extracts of Camellia Sinenis (Green Tea) Leaf, Ocimum Tenuiflorum (Tulsi) Leaf, Alaria Esculenta (Wakame Seaweed) and Olea Europa (Olive) Leaf, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Aloe Barbadensis (Aloe) Leaf Juice, Cocoglycerides, Glycerin, Cetearyl Alcohol, Cetyl Palmitate, Polyhydroxystearic Acid, Sorbitan Olivate, Cetearyl Olivate, Methylcellulose, Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil, Stearic Acid, Acrylates Copolymer, Magnesium Aluminum Silicate, Sorbitan Palmitate, Tocopherol, Xanthan Gum, Alumina, Benzyl Alcohol, Salicylic Acid, Sorbic Acid. Certified Organic

All Good Sport SPF-30 Sunscreen

All Good Sport Mineral Sunscreen Lotion - Coral Reef Friendly, Water & Sweat Resistant, Face & Body,...
1,266 Reviews
All Good Sport Mineral Sunscreen Lotion - Coral Reef Friendly, Water & Sweat Resistant, Face & Body,...
  • WATER & SWEAT RESISTANT: No more burning eyes. Sweat it out hiking, running, biking, this sunscreen won't run into your eyes. Water resistant up to 80...
  • MINERAL SUNSCREEN - NO HARMFUL ADDITIVES: All of our All Good suncare products meet broad-spectrum standards and reef-friendly criteria. Our...
  • LIGHTWEIGHT, NON-GREASY & HYDRATING: Our SPF 30 Sport Sunscreen Lotion covers the basics (broad spectrum UVA/UVB protection and water-resistant) but...

Next, the All Good Sport SPF-30 uses a non-greasy, long-lasting formula that is neither thick nor thin. Its primary blocking ingredient is a non-nano Zinc Oxide at 16%. It is nearly clear after application, with just a faint hint of a white hue on your skin, which is useful for you to see if you missed any areas or if it has rubbed off.

Moreover, it does an excellent job of preventing sunburns while snorkeling. It is water-resistant and designed to last for 80 minutes between reapplications. From our testing, we found this to be true, and the All Good Sport sunscreen was able to last for over an hour of snorkeling. It even reapplies well over wet skin.

Overall, we found the All Good Sport sunscreen does exactly what it claims on the tube. Of course, it is also oxybenzone-free and reef-friendly.

Active Ingredients: Ingredients: Zinc Oxide 16% (Non-nanoparticle), Inactive Ingredients: Aloe Barbadensis (Aloe) Leaf Juice*, Arachidyl Alcohol, Arachidyl Glucoside, Behenyl Alcohol, Bisabolol*, Butyloctyl Salicylate, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter)*, Calendula Officinalis (Calendula) Flower*, Camellia Sinensis (Green Tea) Leaf Extract*, Caprylhydroxamic Acid, Capryloyl Glycerin/Sebacic Acid Copolymer, Caprylyl Glycol, Cellulose Gum, Cetearyl Alcohol, Cetyl Alcohol, Citric Acid, Coco-Glucoside, Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil*, Diheptyl Succinate, Glycerin, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil*, Mauritia Flexuosa (Buriti) Fruit Oil*, Microcrystalline Cellulose, Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Oil*, Polyhydroxystearic Acid, Rosa Canina (Rose Hip) Seed Extract*, Rubus Idaeus (Raspberry) Seed Oil*, Sodium Gluconate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Theobroma Cacao (Cocoa) Seed Butter*, Tocopherol, Water.

Thinksport SPF-50 Sunscreen

Sale
Thinksport SPF 50+ Mineral Sunscreen – Safe, Natural Sunblock for Sports & Active Use - Water...
  • SAFE, NATURAL PROTECTION: Thinksport sunscreen provides effective sun protection for athletes, sports and active use. The broad spectrum UVA & UVB sun...
  • EASY APPLICATION: The hydrating sun cream is quick and easy to apply, and protection begins instantly. The fast absorbing SPF 50+ sun lotion won’t...
  • CLEAN MINERAL FORMULA: The first sunscreen to pass Whole Foods Premium Care requirements, Thinksport vegan, Leaping Bunny certified sun creams contain...

We’ve used the Thinksport SPF-50 a number of times and we found it did a great job. Typically, SPF-50+ sunscreen with non-nano Zinc Oxide tends to be very thick which can be hard to apply and leaves your skin very white. However, these issues were not present in this product; it goes on easily, dries clear, and is non-greasy. It’s thicker than many of the other products in this review, however it’s still acceptable.

The Thinksport SPF-50 sunscreen is also water-resistant with an 80-minute uptime before it needs to be reapplied. It holds up well if you plan on doing long snorkeling sessions. We did not get any burns or even a tan the entire time, which means this sunscreen successfully did its job.

However, this product is not listed as reef-safe. The reason why we included it in this review is because its active ingredient is Zinc Oxide, and as far as we can tell, it does not contain the toxic chemicals that are known to damage reefs such as oxybenzone. However, it has not been determined if this is truly safe for reefs.

Active Ingredients: Zinc Oxide 20% (Non-nano), purified water, aloe barbadensis leaf juice, capric caprylic triglycerides, sorbitan stearate (coconut based), pine wood resin, vegetable glycerin, cetyl dimethicone, hydrogenated castor oil, magnesium sulfate (epsom salt), sunflower oil, jojoba oil, ascorbic acid (vitamin c), tocopherols (vitamin e), olive oil, raspberry seed oil, cranberry seed oil, hyaluronic acid (made from vegetable), glucose & glucose oxidase and lactoperoxidase, currant, citrus paradisi.

Babo Botanicals Clear Zinc SPF-30 Sunscreen

Babo Botanicals Sheer Zinc Mineral Sunscreen Lotion SPF30 - Natural Zinc Oxide - Shea Butter - Face...
2,399 Reviews
Babo Botanicals Sheer Zinc Mineral Sunscreen Lotion SPF30 - Natural Zinc Oxide - Shea Butter - Face...
  • 100% GOOD FOR YOU & YOUR FAMILY: A fast-absorbing, non-whitening & lightweight sunblock for very sensitive skin. Water resistant and perfect for...
  • FORMULATED FOR VERY SENSITIVE SKIN: This sunscreen is specifically developed with zinc to provide you with 80 minutes of water and sweat resistant...
  • ZINC-BASED, MINERAL FORMULA: Specially formulated to naturally protect your skin from UVA and UVB rays, this sunblock is oxybenzone and octinoxate...

Next, the Babo Botanicals Clear Zinc SPF-30 sunscreen is another tried and true reef-safe product that comes in both a scented and unscented version. We prefer unscented, however perhaps you want the “Summer Scent” fragrance on you.

Moving on, this sunscreen has Zinc Oxide at 19% as its primary sun blocking ingredient. Despite being advertised as Clear Zinc, this is a nano-sized Zinc. Despite not being labeled as reef-friendly on the tube (a marketing faux pas, perhaps), on their site they have labeled it as such. It does not contain any oxybenzone, a notorious killer of coral reefs which is a good sign.

Our personal gripe with this product is that we did not like how watery it is. We found the application process to be a little annoying because it tends to drip from your hands before you can fully lather it on your body. That little bit of waste is irksome, and the product seems to be watery even if you shake it thoroughly.

Other than that minor gripe, it spreads easily, dries quickly and clear, and has a non-oily texture when absorbed into the skin. LIke all of the products reviewed so far, the Babo Botanicals sunscreen is rated for 80 minutes of water-resistance, and we found this to be true in our testing. The watery nature of the product makes reapplication irksome as well, at least for us.

Active Ingredients: Zinc Oxide 19.0% (Non-Nano), Aloe Barbadensis Leaf (Aloe Vera Gel) Juice*, Aqua (Deionized Water), Argania Spinosa (Argan) Oil*, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter*, Calendula Officinalis Extract,* Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside, Caprylyl Glycol, Caryodendron Orinocense (Kahai) Oil, Chamomilla Recutita (Chamomile) Extract*, Glycerin*, Glyceryl Stearate, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Oil*, Hexylene Glycol, Hippophae Rhamnoides (Sea Buckthorn) Oil), Hydroxyethylcellulose, Nasturtium Officinalis (Watercress) Extract*, Polyhydroxystearic Acid, Potassium Sorbate, Pueraria Lobata (Kudzu) Extract*, Rosa Canina (Rose Hips) Oil*, Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Extract*, Sodium Bicarbonate, Spiraea Ulmairia (Meadowsweet) Extract*, Stearic Acid, Xanthan Gum, Zemea (Corn) Propanediol. *CERTIFIED ORGANIC INGREDIENTS

Badger Sport SPF 35 Unscented

Badger - SPF 35 Zinc Oxide Sport Sunscreen Cream - Unscented - Broad Spectrum Water Resistant Reef...
  • SIMPLY THE SAFEST SPORT SUNSCREEN - Badger sets the standard for simple safe sunscreens that protect you and your family. This broad spectrum mineral...
  • PROTECTS WITH THE MINERAL ZINC OXIDE - Badger’s SPF 35 Unscented Sport Sunscreen Cream uses non-nano, large particle zinc oxide which stays on top...
  • REEF SAFE SUNSCREEN - Safe for coral means safe for you too! Badger sunscreens are made without oxybenzone or any chemicals shown to harm coral or...

We have used Badger’s sunscreen in the past and found it effective. Now, their Sport SPF-35 formula is even better. It is highly water resistant, causing water to bead off thanks to its slightly oily consistency. Unfortunately, oily sunscreens can get rubbed off if you’re not careful, exposing the skin underneath to the sun’s harsh rays. It has a white appearance when applied, probably because it is an SPF-35 sunscreen.

The Badger Sport has a light sunflower oil scent because that is one of the five ingredients it uses. We found the minimal ingredients list to be very refreshing because it is much easier to check for reef-safe ingredients. As you can see below, it contains mostly organic ingredients and the zinc-oxide is a non-nano, uncoated version that should not be absorbed by the coral reef.

Active Ingredients: Non-Nano Uncoated Zinc Oxide 22.5%, Helianthus Annuus (Organic Sunflower) Oil, Cera Alba (Organic Beeswax), Simmondsia Chinensis (Organic Jojoba) Oil, Tocopherol (Sunflower Vitamin E).

Goddess Garden Sport Natural SPF 30

Goddess Garden - Sport SPF 50 Mineral Sunscreen Stick - 1 Unit
  • Mineral Sunscreen for Sports: Our gentle and effective lotion formula is safe for Sensitive Skin, is Ultra Sheer, and Dry Touch. This Broad Spectrum...
  • Reef-safe non-nano zinc offers powerful broad-spectrum SPF 50 protection against UVA and UVB rays. Soothing and effective formula is ultra-sheer, easy...
  • Gentle unscented mineral formula is safe for sensitive skin, but, keeps you covered, even when you’re working hard. Organic plant-based ingredients...

With a name like Goddess Garden, we were eager to test out how effective this sunscreen is. This sunscreen has a thin consistency, verging on being watery, which helps it spread easily and completely coat your skin. Some reviewers didn’t like how thin it is, and we also agree. If you can apply the sunscreen quickly, there are no issues. If you take too long, certain sections will dry too quickly which makes spreading it difficult. As such, we are recommending the stick version for easier application.

Additionally, the Goddess Garden sunscreen is non-oily and becomes nearly transparent once dried for an SPF-30 product. This can make it difficult to tell where you have already applied the sunscreen, and where it might have worn off. While we don’t like products that give your skin too much of a white hue, not being able to see it at all can pose problems as well.

It takes this sunscreen 15 minutes to fully dry and get absorbed into your skin. Once that has happened, you will find it to be as water-resistant and UV-resistant as the Stream2Sea sunscreen. You can expect it to last for over an hour before reapplication is needed. We had no issues reapplying it while wet. The Goddess Garden sunscreen is slightly easier to see when reapplying it, though it is usually transparent on the first application.

Active Ingredients: Titanium Dioxide (6.4%), Zinc Oxide (6.0%), Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice*, Aluminum Hydroxide, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter)*, Caprylhydroxamic Acid, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (Coconut Oil), Carthamus Tinctorius (Safflower) Seed Oil*, Glycerin, Glyceryl Caprylate, Glyceryl Stearate Citrate, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil*, Polyhydroxystearic Acid, Sorbitan Oleate, Stearic Acid, Tocopherol (Vitamin E), Water, Xanthan Gum *CERTIFIED ORGANIC

RAW Elements Face + Body SPF 30

Raw Elements Face and Body Certified Natural Sunscreen | Non-Nano Zinc Oxide, 95% Organic, Water...
  • EGW Top-Rated Sunscreen – Performance-driven face and body sun protection lasts up to 80 minutes and does not run or sting your eyes. Comes in a...
  • Daily use for all ages – gentle, moisturizing formula can be used as part of your daily skin care routine and is gentle enough for kids.
  • Certified organic ingredients natural mineral sunscreen – Soy, gluten and nut free, contains no synthetic chemicals and packed with nourishing...

Another reef-safe sunscreen for your consideration is the RAW Elements Face + Body sunscreen. We found it to be oily and easy to spread and apply over the skin. It has a sunflower oil fragrance, dries slightly white, and is very water-resistant.

Something to be cautious of are sunscreens that use oil as their primary water resistance method. Since oil can be rubbed off easily, so too will your UV protection and this can result in more sunburns. If you are careful this is not so much an issue.

Active Ingredients: Zinc Oxide 23%, Organic Sunflower Oil, Organic Green Tea, Organic Black Tea, Organic Coffee, Organic Hemp Seed Oil, Organic Cocoa Butter, All Natural Mango Butter, Organic Beeswax, All Natural Rosemary Oil Extract, All Natural Vitamin E.

Products that didn’t meet our expectations

Just because a sunscreen is reef-safe does not automatically make it a good product! A reef-friendly sunscreen should still fulfill its primary purpose, which is to protect the wearer from sunburns. We have tested many products during our time snorkeling, and the following brands simply did not compare to the products listed above. The brands listed below failed to provide adequate UV protection. It either came off easily (in the water or by coming into contact with any surface) or was difficult to apply, leading to sunburns. They are:

  • Mexitan/Coral Safe
  • Rubber Ducky
  • Very Bare Belly Organics
  • Aubrey Organics
  • Soleo Organics
  • Caribbean Solutions/Hawaiian Sol

Why Do We Need Reef-Friendly Sunscreen?

First, how it affects you specifically: sun protection is essential whether you are swimming, snorkeling, surfing, or just laying in the sand. Without it, you will be badly sunburnt, age faster, and have an increased risk of developing cancer.

Second, reef-friendly sunscreen will help snorkelers preserve the coral reefs because the ingredients used are not as harmful and they are also biodegradable. Thus, you can get all of the benefits of the UV protection while also protecting the reefs.

It is estimated that approximately 50% of the corals in the Great Barrier Reef, the largest collection of coral reefs in the world, have died. While the majority of this decline is attributed to global warming, we should do our part to protect it by wearing reef safe sunscreen.

Conversely, conventional sunscreen will wash off in the ocean and leave behind harmful chemicals. These chemicals will lead to coral bleaching, and they may take years to degrade. Scientists estimate that these chemicals have already damaged 10% of the world’s reefs.

With consumers purchasing sunscreen more than ever, thanks to the increase in popularity from marine tourists who want to scuba dive or snorkel in an exotic location, the reefs have been affected more than ever. It’s good that people are taking measures to protect themselves, but they must also consider how their actions can have an impact on the environment.

Although sunscreen has varying degrees of effectiveness according to their SPF rating, many of them have over 20 chemical compounds. Furthermore, within 20 minutes of entering the water, approximately 25% of the sunscreen will be washed off and dissolved into the water, where it can potentially harm the coral reefs.

healthy coral reef

How Are Sunscreens Harming the Ocean?

Conventional sunscreens usually have no consideration of their harmful effects on the environment. Manufacturers will use toxic chemicals and nano-sized ingredients that, when absorbed by the reefs, can seriously harm them. According to this study, researchers found that “sunscreens, by promoting viral infection, potentially play an important role in coral bleaching in areas prone to high levels of recreational use by humans.”

As awareness increased over the years, numerous tourist destinations have finally started to ban the sale and use of certain sunscreens to preserve their reefs. Some popular destinations include Hawaii, Aruba, the US Virgin Islands, Bonaire Island, and The Pacific Island Nation of Palau.

But how badly is sunscreen affecting the reefs exactly, you may be asking? Here are some facts you should consider:

  • 6,000 tons of sunscreen are washed into the reefs each year.
  • Certain ingredients have been proven to damage the fragile ecosystem of coral reefs.
  • Baby coral that have absorbed octinoxate and oxybenzone demonstrate signs of distress and results in coral bleaching.
  • Coral bleaching refers to when corals expel the algae (zooxanthellae, try saying that 10 times in a row) living in their tissue, giving them a white appearance, and increasing their chances of dying.
  • Certain ingredients washed into the ocean can also harm other species of marine life, including marine organisms and certain fish.

How to Apply Sunscreen

Applying sunscreen is very straightforward, yet many people still do it wrong. Here are some quick tips to help you get it done the right way.

First, give your sunscreen container a good shake. You want to make sure that the compounds haven’t settled and clumped up. And if they have, this will mix all of the ingredients together and provide the sun protection you expect. It also makes it easier to squeeze the product out.

Second, apply the sunscreen liberally and evenly. This is the most common mistake people make. They either apply not enough, or too much in certain areas while completely missing other areas. Make sure to apply sunscreen behind the ears, behind the knees, on top of your feet, and on the neck. The amount of sunscreen needed to adequately coat your boat is enough to fill a shot glass.

Third, make sure you apply the sunscreen 30 minutes before heading out. This gives the product time to be absorbed into your skin. This way, it is less likely to immediately be washed off when exposed to sweat, water, or physical contact.

Lastly, just because you have sun protection doesn’t mean you are completely safe. There is always a chance portions of the sunscreen have been washed off, or you may have forgotten to reapply it in a timely manner. Therefore, whenever possible, try to stay in the shade or wear sun protection clothing so that you do not have to rely entirely on sunscreen.

Reef-Safe Sunscreen Alternatives

One of the best ways to reduce the harmful effects of sunscreen is to simply use less of it. By wearing sun protection clothing, such as swimwear with UPF ratings and rash guards for snorkeling, you can cover up large sections of your body and protect yourself from UV rays.

The benefits of wearing sun protection clothing is numerous. Not only do you not need to use as much sunscreen, but you don’t need to worry about reapplying the sunscreen every few minutes. You still need to apply it on often forgotten areas that aren’t covered up such as the back of your neck because any exposed areas can still get sunburnt.

Best Scuba Tanks Review and Buying Guide

The distinguishing piece of equipment for a scuba diver is their scuba tank. When it comes to diving, no other scuba gear is quite as critical to your survival, so you need the best scuba tank for the job. Despite knowing this, if this is your first time shopping for a scuba cylinder, you will likely be overwhelmed by all of the factors you need to consider before purchasing one.

In the past, you may be used to renting your tanks without really giving it much thought. But now that it’s time for you to own your own tank, the process is daunting and you don’t want to make a critical error. You are correct not to take this process lightly, and the aim of this article is to clear up any confusion and help you find a scuba tank that suits your diving needs.

A good scuba tank will safely sustain you underwater and endure any punishment thrown at it. Ideally, you will be using a steel tank, however aluminum tanks are a good budget option. If you take great care of your scuba tank, it can last for over a decade and pass multiple safety inspections. Let’s go over which scuba tanks are the most reliable so that you can dive with peace of mind.

Our Top Picks:

Sale Cyl-Tec New Stock 80CF Scuba Diving Tank - (3000 psi) Aluminum Diving Cylinder with Combo Valve

Best Steel Scuba Tanks

Faber FX Series 100 Cu. Ft. High Pressure Steel Tank

Faber FX Series 100 cu ft High Pressure Blue Steel Tank F-X Din/Yoke 3442 psi, Steel Scuba Tank,...
8 Reviews
Faber FX Series 100 cu ft High Pressure Blue Steel Tank F-X Din/Yoke 3442 psi, Steel Scuba Tank,...
  • The 100cf Faber Blue Steel FX Tank is an excellent high pressure steel tank.
  • F-x Series is a DOT E-13488 specification, no overfilling is allowed.
  • All F-X Series cylinders are oxygen cleaned and suitable for Nitrox use

Features:

  • Capacity: 100 cf
  • Measurements: 25.39” (64.50 cm) x 7.24” (18.42 cm)
  • Weight: 31.4 lbs (14.2 kg)
  • Buoyancy: Empty: -0.59 lbs (-0.15 kg); Full: -8.41 lbs (-3.81 kg)
  • Max Fill Pressure: 3442 PSI / 230 Bar
  • Materials: Chromium molybdenum steel

If you’re in the market for a galvanized steel scuba tank, then Faber is the only manufacturer of them, and a darn-good one at that. Faber tanks are the go-to for many scuba divers who prefer steel tanks over aluminum.

Why should you get a steel cylinder? After all, aluminum seems to be more popular and cheaper, however steel is more buoyant in the water and much more durable. Steel as a material is stronger than aluminum, so you actually need less of it for a durable tank, which means there’s more room for adding in air.

As for this particular model, the Faber FX series 100 cf, it is a great choice for someone looking to dive below 40ft. The 100 cf provides an air capacity that is 25% greater than an 80 cf tank.

Since steel tanks provide so many benefits, unfortunately they are on the more expensive side. However, they are worth the money because they can last for up to 15 years. Steel is a highly durable material that can take the beating of daily diving, and this model specifically is made from chromium molybdenum steel which is resilient.

Next, this is a high-pressure tank with a maximum fill pressure of 3442 psi (230 bar). It is Nitrox compatible up to 40%, with a 3/4″ – 14 NPSM thread. This tank has already been rigorously tested and comes with a valid VIP sticker and Hydro stamp. The only real downside of this Faber tank is that it’s quite expensive. Beginners may not find the investment worth it, particularly if they don’t dive frequently.

Furthermore, all of Faber’s tanks are triple protected with a combination of epoxy pain, a zinc galvanizing spray, and lastly, a polyurethane top coat. If you’re looking for the most durable and reliable galvanized steel scuba tank for longer dives, then the Faber FX Series 100 cf is the best scuba tank for the job.

Pros:

  • Lighter on land and more durable than aluminum.
  • Triple protected finish.
  • Reduced risk of sustained load cracking compared to aluminum tanks.

Cons:

  • Very expensive, not a good choice for beginners.

Faber Blue Steel HP 80 CF Scuba Tank

Features:

  • Capacity: 80 cf
  • Measurements: 20.87” (53.01 cm) x 7.24” (18.42 cm)
  • Weight: 28.60 lbs (13 kg)
  • Buoyancy: Empty: -1.74 lbs (-0.79 kg); Full: -8.05 lbs ( -3.65 kg)
  • Max Fill Pressure: 3442 PSI / 230 Bar
  • Materials: Chromium molybdenum steel

We’ve already established that Faber is the best steel scuba tank manufacturer, so it’s no surprise that we are pretty much exclusively recommending their tanks. This next tank is basically identical to the Faber FX 100 cf, except this is the 80 cf version. Which model you get depends on your diving experience and what kinds of dives you plan on doing.

Just like the FX 100 cf, this tank is similarly durable, with superior buoyancy compared to aluminum and a lower risk of sustained load cracking. Since it has a triple protected finish, it is corrosion-resistant, at least on the outside. Take care to not let it rust or corrode internally.

Furthermore, the Faber FX Blue Steel 80 cf has a convertible Pro Valve (DIN or yoke). It has a maximum fill capacity of 3442 psi (230 bar), and is lightweight at only 28.6 lbs (13 kg). For beginners who want a steel tank for shallow scuba diving, then this is the perfect option for you.

Pros:

  • Lighter on land than aluminum, and is negatively buoyant underwater even when empty.
  • This model is very light at 28.6 lbs, and is best-suited for shallow water divers.
  • Triple protected finish.
  • Lower risk of sustained load cracking.

Cons:

  • Steel tanks are more susceptible to corrosion compared to aluminum tanks. They require much more thorough cleaning after each session, particularly if diving in sea water. Regular maintenance is necessary to ensure no rusting or corrosion occurs.

Faber FX Series 120 cf HP Blue Steel Tank

Faber FX Series 120 cu ft High Pressure Blue Steel Tank F-X Din/Yoke 3442 psi
2 Reviews
Faber FX Series 120 cu ft High Pressure Blue Steel Tank F-X Din/Yoke 3442 psi
  • The 120cf Faber Blue Steel FX Tank is an excellent high pressure steel tank.
  • F-x Series is a DOT E-13488 specification, no overfilling is allowed.
  • All F-X Series cylinders are oxygen cleaned and suitable for Nitrox use.

Features:

  • Capacity: 120 cf
  • Measurements: 29.3” ( 74.42 cm) x 7.24” (18.39 cm)
  • Weight: 39.2 lbs (17.78 kg)
  • Buoyancy: Empty: 0.65 lbs (0.29 kg); Full: – 8.82 lbs (-4.0 kg)
  • Max Fill Pressure: 3442 psi (230 Bar)
  • Materials: Chromium molybdenum steel

Once again, we are recommending a Faber steel tank. Not only is Faber the only manufacturer of steel tanks in the US, despite having little competition, they continue to provide the most reliable and durable steel cylinders on the market.

As we mentioned, their tanks are the only ones that are galvanized. On top of that, an epoxy paint and a polyurethane coating is applied to ensure long-lasting durability and protection from the corrosive nature of seawater on steel.

This tank, the Faber FX 120 cf High Pressure has a capacity of 3442 psi (230 bar) and its large size means it is best suited for technical diving. Its 120 cf air capacity provides 50% more oxygen than an 80 cf tank, and 25% more than a 100 cf tank. This tank includes a convertible valve (DIN or yoke) and a self-draining boot.

Pros:

  • Impressive capacity.
  • Triple protected finish.
  • Self-draining boot.
  • Convertible valve (DIN or yoke).

Cons:

  • Extremely expensive; ideal for experienced divers.

Best Aluminum Scuba Tanks

Cyl-Tec 80CF Scuba Diving Tank

Sale
Cyl-Tec New Stock 80CF Scuba Diving Tank - (3000 psi) Aluminum Diving Cylinder with Combo Valve
152 Reviews
Cyl-Tec New Stock 80CF Scuba Diving Tank - (3000 psi) Aluminum Diving Cylinder with Combo Valve
  • This tank ships ready to fill (empty) and is DOT/TC certified. Federal law requires the tank be shipped unfilled.
  • Cyl-Tec's 3000 psi Scuba Diving Tank has an Air Capacity of 80 CF. Working Pressure = 3000 psi (207 bar)
  • Salt Water Buoyancy (Full) = -1.9 lbs; Salt Water Buoyancy (Empty) = 3.8 lbs

Features:

  • Capacity: 80 cf
  • Measurements:: 26.1″ (66.3 cm) x 7.25″ (18.42 cm)
  • Height with Valve: 29.75” (75.56 cm)
  • Weight: 31.4 lbs (14.2 kg)
  • Buoyancy: Empty: 3.8 lbs (1.72 kg); Full: -1.9 lbs/ (-0.86 kg)
  • Max Fill Pressure: 3000 PSI / 207 Bar
  • Materials: 6061-T6 Aluminum Brushed Finish Cylinder

Cyl-Tec scuba cylinders are Chinese-manufactured cylinders exported to the US. However, since all scuba tanks must adhere to the strict regulations outlined by the US Department of Transportation, you rest easy knowing that all tanks are very high in quality. And scuba diving is only one application in which this brand’s aluminum cylinders can be used for.

The Cyl-Tec 80 cf aluminum tank is one of the most lightweight tanks on the market. It is only slightly negatively buoyant want full, and very buoyant when empty, with a maximum fill pressure of 3000 psi (207 bar). It is constructed from high-strength 6061-T6 aluminum alloy and has a brushed finish. This keeps the tank from being magnetic and makes it corrosion resistant. This tank is also Nitrox ready which means it can accommodate mixes up to 40% oxygen.

Furthermore, the Cyl-Tec 80 cf tank is also one of the most affordable scuba cylinders on the market. Its low price is not indicative of cutting corners; as we mentioned, this tank had to pass the DOT’s standards to even be listed for sale. In fact, it even passed Transport Canada’s requirements and a whole slew of other safety departments as well.

On top of that, the Cyl-Tec have been established to provide high-quality, lightweight cylinders with a seamless construction. Overall, the Cyl-Tec 80 cf aluminum tank is perhaps the best scuba cylinder tank for a beginner diver who just wants a tank that is affordable and suitable for shallow water diving.

Pros:

  • Aluminum tanks are significantly more corrosion and rust-resistant than steel tanks. They oxidize, further guarding itself from corrosion. This tank is highly unlikely to rust due to the aluminum alloy used.
  • Comes with a Combo Valve that makes it usable with both yoke and DIN connections. To make a change, simply remove the center plug with an Allen wrench.

Cons:

  • Not ideal for deep diving due to its small capacity.
  • Aluminum tanks are heavier than steel tanks on land, but are more buoyant underwater.

Sea Pearls 80 cf Aluminum Tank

Sea Pearls 80 Aluminum Scuba Diving Air Tank 3000 PSI (Yellow, Delux K Valve VA100-30A)
35 Reviews

Features:

  • Capacity: 80 cf
  • Measurements: 29.75″ (75.56 cm) x 7.8” (19.81 cm)
  • Weight: 30.0 lbs (13.61 kg)
  • Buoyancy: Empty: 3.3 lbs ( 1.50 kg); Full: -1.5 lbs (-0.68 kg)
  • Max Fill Pressure: 3000 PSI / 207 Bar
  • Materials: High strength aluminum alloy

The Sea Pearls 80 cf aluminum tank is on the higher end of the price spectrum, but it’s well worth the money. Sea Pearls used to solely manufacture dive weights and are still a pioneer of high-quality dive weights, but they are trying their hand at manufacturing scuba tanks. They manufacture both aluminum and steel cylinders now, plus applicable accessories.

Using the same high standards they used for their dive weights, Sea Pearls applied it to their scuba cylinders. Sea Pearls have taken all the necessary steps to ensure this tank is as durable and reliable as possible. It comes with an up-to-date Hydro Stamp and VIP sticker, and is made from high-strength aluminum alloy.

Next, this tank has a maximum fill pressure of 3,000 psi (207 bar) and at a weight of only 30 lbs (13.61 kg), this is a very lightweight aluminum tank. The Sea Pearls 80 cf comes equipped with a 3/4 – 14 NPSM thread, which is ideal for a tank of this pressure. For convenience, this tank includes a high-compression stainless steel K-valve that is chrome plated. Not only is it more efficient, but it’s easier to use.

Pros:

  • Highly versatile; can be used to fill an air gun or spear gun if you desire.
  • Lightweight cylinder is easy to carry both in and out of the water.
  • Becomes positively buoyant as it empties.

Cons:

  • Only comes with a K-valve (yoke).

Catalina 80 cf Aluminum Tank

Features:

  • Capacity: 80 cf
  • Measurements: 25.9″ (65.80 cm) x 7.25” (18.42 cm)
  • Weight: 31.3 lbs (14.20 kg)
  • Buoyancy: Empty: 4.1 lbs ( 1.86kg); Full: -1.6 lbs ( -0.73 kg);
  • Max Fill Pressure: 3000 PSI / 207 Bar
  • Materials: High strength aluminum alloy 6061-T6

Catalina has been one of the largest suppliers of aluminum scuba tanks for over 30 years, and to date they now export to over 100 countries worldwide. In fact, if you’ve ever rented a scuba tank before, chances are you already came into contact with this tank, or at least a comparable Catalina model. Why are these tanks so widespread?

To start, their aluminum tanks are made from high-strength 6061-T6 aluminum alloy. This material is corrosion and rust-resistant, with long-lasting durability. The Catalina 80 cf is Nitrox ready up to 40% and has a maximum fill pressure of 3,000 psi (207 bar). It only weighs around 31 lbs so it is easy to handle.

Furthermore, this tank includes a Chrome-plated marine base and even comes with a Pro Valve for converting the air capacity for use with yoke or DIN components. And despite being an aluminum tank, this model is very hardy though not as resilient as a steel tank. For these features, you will have to pay a pretty penny. However, for the quality that you are getting, it is well worth it.

Pros:

  • Comes with a Pro Valve (DIN and yoke).
  • Nitrox up to 40% oxygen.
  • Comes with a high flow capacity valve.

Cons:

  • The chrome-plated marine base only works for sea water if manufactured correctly. The effectiveness of the chrome plating depends on the number of layers used and its overall thickness.

Sherwood Aluminum 100 cf Scuba Diving Tank

Sherwood Aluminum 100 CF Scuba Diving 3300 psi Dive Tank (Black)
5 Reviews
Sherwood Aluminum 100 CF Scuba Diving 3300 psi Dive Tank (Black)
  • Sherwood Aluminum 100 CF Scuba Diving 3300 psi Dive Tank
  • Pressure (psi): 3300 psi
  • Weight: 46.2 lbs

Features:

  • Capacity: 100 cf
  • Measurements: 30.3” (76.96 cm) x 8” (20.32 cm)
  • Weight: 46.2 lbs (21 kg)
  • Buoyancy: Full: -7.8 lbs (-3.54 kg)
  • Max Fill Pressure: 3300 PSI / 220 Bar
  • Materials: High strength aluminum alloy

Sherwood has been manufacturing dive tanks for over 60 years and to this day they are still one of the go-to brands. They have earned a reputation for delivering cylinders that are safe and reliable.

The Sherwood aluminum 100 cf is constructed using a high-strength aluminum alloy and it has a maximum fill pressure of 3,300 psi (220 bar). Weighing 46.2 lbs (21 kg), it is on the heavier side compared to other tanks. However, this just means it is more buoyant in the water. With 100 cf of space, that means you get 25% more air than an 80 cf tank.

Pros:

  • 100 cf and 3300 psi.
  • Highly corrosion-resistant.
  • More buoyant than most other tanks.

Cons:

  • With a weight of 46.2 lbs (20 kg), this is a very heavy tank.

Best Pony Bottles

You never know what might go wrong during a dive, so you should always prepare for the worst. It is never a bad idea to prepare a back-up device for any major piece of scuba equipment, and having a pony bottle as an emergency oxygen tank is critical. This is especially true if you go on deep dives as opposed to recreational diving.

In case an accident happens to you or something else, such as an unexpected tank failure, a redundant air source could be life-saving in such a catastrophic event. Pony bottles are miniature scuba tanks that only provide enough air to make a safe ascent back to the surface. They are not intended to replace a full-sized scuba tank.

Catalina Pony Bottle Tanks (5 Sizes)

Features:

  • Capacity: 6 cf; 13 cf; 16 cf; 30 cf and 40 cf
  • Max Fill Pressure: 3000 PSI / 207 Bar
  • Materials: High strength aluminum alloy 6061-T6

Catalina is one of the top suppliers of aluminum scuba tanks, and that quickly becomes apparent once you have a chance to use their products. The Catalina Pony Bottle is made to the same standard as their regular tanks, albeit it is much smaller. It comes in 5 different sizes, ranging from 6 cf to 40 cf, all with a maximum fill pressure of 3,000 psi (207 bar).

Since these tanks are so small, they add minimal extra weight to your scuba setup. In our opinion, the extra weight added is a negligible price to pay for the benefit of peace of mind and the extra oxygen it provides in the event of an emergency.

 

Pros:

  • Includes a Pro Valve which is a convertible K-Valve (DIN or yoke).
  • The valve provides excellent flow and is easy to operate. It also includes a multi-ported burst disc plug.
  • Five different sizes to choose from depending on your needs and skill level.

Cons:

  • This tank uses a chrome-plated marine base. Chrome plating’s usefulness is debatable; it must have enough layers and a proper thickness in order to be beneficial.

XS Scuba Aluminum Pony Bottle (4 Sizes)

XS Scuba Aluminum Pony Bottle Tank - 30 cu ft
15 Reviews
XS Scuba Aluminum Pony Bottle Tank - 30 cu ft
  • Thunderbird Aluminum Pony Bottles by XS Scuba
  • Nitrox Ready up to 40%
  • Includes 3000 psi Thermo K Valve

Features:

  • Capacity: 6 cf; 13 cf; 19 cf and 30 cf
  • Max Fill Pressure: 3000 PSI / 207 Bar
  • Materials: High strength aluminum alloy

XS Scuba has been in the industry since 2002 and are a well-known supplier of scuba equipment – from wetsuits, knives, bags, valves, all the way to scuba tanks. They are a trusted one-stop shop for all things scuba, and their tanks are excellent as well.

The XS Scuba Aluminum Pony Bottle is available in 4 sizes ranging from 6cf to 30cf, and they are all constructed from high-strength aluminum alloy. Their maximum fill pressure is 3,000 psi (207 bar) and they include a convertible Pro valve (DIN or yoke).

These tanks have thick and resilient walls that can take a beating. Both the interior and exterior are rust and corrosion-resistant thanks to aluminum’s natural properties. Overall, this bottle is lightweight and should fit comfortably in most divers’ kits. It is easy to attach and will serve will as a reserve tank.

Pros:

  • Durable walls that are damage-resistant and corrosion-resistant.
  • Pro Valve (DIN or yoke).
  • Four sizes to choose from.

Cons:

  • Too buoyant when empty.

Luxfer Aluminum Pony Tank

Features:

  • Capacity: 6 cf; 19 cf and 30 cf
  • Max Fill Pressure: 3000 PSI / 207 Bar
  • Materials: High strength aluminum alloy L6X 6061-T6

Luxfer is a brand that is very popular with the US military, and it is used by both commercial and technical divers alike. They use a proprietary version of the standard 6061 aluminum alloy, called the L6X. This version completely surpasses the original in dependability and safety.

Their pony tank includes a Pro Valve (DIN or yoke) and is 23.5% Nitrox ready. It has a maximum fill pressure of 3,000 psi (207 bar). The Luxfer Pony Bottle comes in three sizes, from 6 cf to 30 cf. The smaller two tanks are ideal for use while recreationally diving, and the larger tank is perfect as a redundant air source for deep or technical diving. Be sure to select the appropriate size for your needs.

Pros:

  • Constructed using a proprietary version of aluminum alloy, the L6X 6061-T6 which is far more durable and reliable than the original.
  • Includes a Pro Valve (DIN or yoke).

Cons:

  • 30 cf is the largest available size.

Best Carbon Fiber Tank – IORMAN Universal 4500 psi

IORMAN 98Cu.Ft / 4500psi PCP Refill Tank DOT Certified Carbon Fiber Cylinder Compressed Air System...
3 Reviews
IORMAN 98Cu.Ft / 4500psi PCP Refill Tank DOT Certified Carbon Fiber Cylinder Compressed Air System...
  • Capacity: 9 Liters / 98 Cubic feet / 550 cubic inch carbon fiber cylinder.
  • Certificate: DOT-SP-14621 certified. Inspection cycle: 3-Year, Service life:15-Year.
  • Working pressure: 30mpa / 300bar / 4500psi standard. The bottle mouth: M18x1.5-6H input thread.

Features:

  • Capacity: 88 cf
  • Measurements: 22.1 (56.13 cm) x 6.9” (17.53 cm)
  • Weight: 70% less than traditional steel cylinders.
  • Max Fill Pressure: 4500 PSI / 310 Bar
  • Materials: Carbon fiber composite

This tank is unique because of its construction and the materials used. The Iorman carbon fiber tank has a carbon fiber exterior, and the interior liner is made from aluminum. The carbon fiber is then wrapped up in a protective fiberglass layer. It’s just layers and layers of protective material on top of each other, making it one of the most durable tanks available.

Furthermore, these materials are also lightweight, and one of the main features of the Iorman tank is that it’s unbelievably lightweight compared to steel and aluminum tanks. It only weighs about 4 kg (8.8 lbs), with a maximum fill pressure of 4,500 psi (310 bar) which is simply unheard of in commercial products. The tank is also fitted with a high-pressure gas cylinder valve.

According to the manufacturer, this scuba cylinder can last up to 15 years, which is about equivalent to what a well-maintained steel tank can last for. And since it is made from carbon fiber, there is no risk of the tank corroding. In other words, maintenance should be even easier compared to steel tanks.

Additionally, despite how lightweight the tank is, it is freakishly durable. In fact, not only is this cylinder designed to withstand impacts, but also to resist distorting under immense pressure.

This tank meets the DOT-SP-14621 standards.

Types of Scuba Tanks

It is difficult to classify scuba tanks into a specific type or category. Each one can differ in size, material, and the type of valve, so grouping them is not always so clear cut. In this section, we will go over some of the factors to consider when shopping for a scuba tank, starting with the most common materials they are constructed from.

Steel

Most dive professionals will agree that steel is the superior material in cylinder construction. This is because steel tanks are lighter on land and more durable overall. Steel tanks are lighter than aluminum tanks because steel is the stronger material. Therefore, less steel is needed to create the equivalent aluminum tank in terms of durability and fill pressure. In a similar vein, steel tanks have some of the highest capacities because manufacturers can simply make their tanks larger.

Thus, divers who see themselves spending a lot of time in the water in the future should invest in a durable and long-lasting steel tank. With the proper care and maintenance, steel tanks can last as long as 15 years. In other words, it can pass multiple safety inspections before it needs to be replaced.

As effective as steel tanks are, they do come with a few downsides as well. The first and most obvious one is its cost. Steel tanks are more expensive than aluminum tanks. If you are just starting out with diving or aren’t sure if you’ll be diving a lot in the future, a steel tank simply isn’t worth the investment.

The second issue is internal corrosion. Steel is susceptible to rusting, particularly the internal sections of the tank. This can compromise the integrity of the tank and is extremely dangerous if it happens, so proper maintenance of a steel tank is absolutely crucial.

Third, while steel is lighter on land, it’s a different story underwater. Steel becomes negatively buoyant, meaning it sinks in water. This is not necessarily a bad thing depending on your setup because less effort is required to stay underwater. However, as the air inside the tank depletes, steel tanks become less negatively buoyant but will never quite reach the point of positive buoyancy. Therefore, you will sink less than you used to, but you’ll still be sinking.

Aluminum

Moving onto another popular material used in cylinder construction. Aluminium tanks come with many benefits, however there is one major flaw to aluminum tanks that we must address which is that it’s not very durable. Unlike the resilient steel tank, any major impacts on an aluminum tank can compromise it. Since aluminum is brittle, manufacturers have to add multiple layers of aluminum to strengthen it. This makes aluminum tanks heavier and have less air capacity than steel tanks.

Why then would someone want to have an aluminum tank? To prevent the major flaw found in steel stanks. Aluminum tanks are corrosion-resistant far better than steel tanks. In fact, rather than rusting, this metal will oxidize, forming a protective layer which further resists corrosion. For this reason, aluminum tanks are arguably safer than steel tanks as long as they are properly maintained. Since you will be spending so much time in salt water, corrosion-resistance is a must.

Another benefit of aluminum tanks is their comparatively lower price. If you are just getting started or don’t plan on diving frequently, you might want to start off with an aluminum tank before investing in a more expensive one.

Lastly, keep in mind that aluminum tanks start off negatively buoyant but they become positively buoyant when empty. Depending on how you set up your dive weights, you may find yourself slowly rising to the surface as the tank depletes which can be annoying.

Carbon Fiber

Even though steel and aluminum are the two most popular tank options on the market, we have to give a special mention to carbon fiber.

There are three main benefits to using a carbon fiber tank. The first is that carbon fiber is a very light material which makes it comfortable to scuba with. Second is that, like aluminum, it is corrosion and rust resistant, so less maintenance is required. Lastly, carbon fiber can hold a significantly larger PSI, up to 5,000 PSI.

With all of these advantages, why then is carbon fiber not the de facto standard? The main reason is that they are a new development that has not yet been approved by the proper authorities such as the American Department of Transport. The second major issue is that they are currently prohibitively expensive, though some are more affordable than others.

Scuba Tank Buying Guide

Price

We can say all we want about how good a specific scuba tank is, however it’s all a moot point if its price is prohibitively expensive. Unfortunately, the biggest factor when purchasing a scuba tank is its price. We’ve mentioned already that steel tanks are more expensive than aluminum. If you don’t plan on diving very often, then financially, aluminum tanks are the better option.

Size and Air Capacity

There is a distinction between the size of a scuba tank and its air capacity. When thinking about the size of a tank, consider how it is going to fit on your body and with your scuba gear. Scuba tanks don’t come in small, medium, or large sizes the way clothing does. The tank size is expressed in volume, or its capacity to hold compressed gas. The standard units used are cubic feet (cf, imperial) and liters (L, metric).

Typically, the higher the volume, the more compressed gas it can contain. Most scuba tanks you will see in dive shops are 80cf or 10.2L at 3,000 psi (200 bar). If you have your own scuba tank, you can get one with a much higher volume such as 120cf or 15.3L. You can also bring a backup mini air supply with a lower air volume in case your main tank fails.

Most recreational divers use an 11L cylinder that holds 80cf of gas at a pressure of 3,000 PSI which should be sufficient for a bottom time that does not yet run the risk of decompression sickness. Younger or smaller divers may use a smaller scuba cylinder, such as a 9L AL 63 tank.

Furthermore,the most common sizes for aluminum cylinders are AL63, AL80, and AL100. Steel cylinders have more size options than aluminum, and some popular ones are HP50, HP80, HP117, HP133, and HP150.

As for air capacity, if you prefer to go on longer dives, then of course a larger air capacity is important. With that said, a tank that’s too large for you is going to be difficult to use underwater. Therefore, you have to consider both the size of a tank and how it lines up with your torso, in addition to its air capacity, before purchasing one.

The table below will give you approximate size measurements for some of the most popular tanks.

Height    Tank
20-21 Inches AL63, HP80
24 Inches HP100, HP117
26 Inches AL80, AL100
28-30 Inches HP120, HP133

While the tank height is an important consideration, the tank diameter is arguably the more important number. Most primary tanks, be it steel or aluminum, have a diameter of 7-¼ inches. Some of the larger capacity tanks, such as the AL100, HP117, and HP133 have a diameter of 8 inches, though the HP120 is also a 7-¼ inch tank. This should not be an issue for your BCD, but it may get annoying switching between two tank diameters by adjusting the tank bands. The issue is that some storage racks on dive boats don’t accommodate 8-inch diameter tanks.

Number of Tanks

Depending on the kind of dives you embark on, you may need to use more than one cylinder. If you plan on spending a long time underwater or performing multiple dives in one session, then you need additional scuba tanks. You may need more scuba tanks if the air capacity and size of the tank is insufficient for the dive you are planning.

Valves

All scuba tanks are sealed with a tank valve: either a Yoke valve or a DIN valve. In the past, yoke valves were primarily used in the United States, while DIN valves were the standard for European countries.

Nowadays, the availability of valve adapters and 1st stage regulator adapters has made it easy to switch between these two types. Keep in mind that yoke tanks can be adapted to work with DIN regs, but not necessarily the other way around. Both valve types rely on an O-ring to provide a tight seal from the tank valve to the first stage regulator.

PSI/Bar Pressure

Every scuba tank is technically a high-pressure vessel, however there are some designed for recreation with “standard”, “low”, and “mid” pressure as well. The units used to express pressure are PSI (pounds per square inch) and Bar. Both units are commonly used and you can convert between them if you know the value of one.

Though there are scuba tanks with a variety of pressure ratings, some popular options are low-pressure tanks (up to 2640 PSI, 180 bar), standard pressure tanks (3000 PSI, 200 bar), and high pressure tanks (3300 to 3500 PSI, 230 to 240 bar).

Since the amount of air pressure in a cylinder varies depending on if you have a low, mid, or high pressure one, there are a few things to keep in mind. If you are planning on diving with Nitrox, we recommend avoiding high-pressure aluminum tanks such as the AL 100 or 3300 PSi neutral buoyancy or compact tanks. Instead, opt for a high-pressure steel tank that can handle Nitrox up to 3442 PSI.

Paints and Coatings

Aluminum tanks are available in a wide variety of colors, whereas steel and small aluminum tanks are available in a limited selection of colors due to small and erratic production runs.

Despite the availability of colored aluminum tanks, it seems that most coatings seem to encourage corrosion in aluminum than prevent it. Furthermore, modern paints do not seem to be as durable as coatings in previous generations, and soon you will find them peeling and flaking. If water manages to make its way beneath the paint, it can begin to corrode the tank. Darker coatings may even obscure corrosion beneath the paint, whereas clear or translucent colors highlight any corrosion. However, we generally recommend avoiding paint on aluminum.

For steel tanks, this is less of an issue assuming they receive proper care. Keep an eye out for any deep scratches that have cut through the galvanizing and exposes the bare steel underneath. It should be touched up with a cold-galvanizing compound or a rush-inhibiting paint.

Regardless of which type of scuba cylinder you own, there will always be some kind of cosmetic imperfection even when it comes fresh out of the factory. These imperfections will only become more numerous as you take it out on dives. With minimal care, all tanks should last for years regardless of their cosmetics. If your main concern is on how the tank looks rather than how it performs, then you need to rethink your priorities. Consider renting tanks instead of owning.

Accessories

It is very rare for scuba tanks to come with a handle or net, however they can be purchased separately if you really want them.

The benefit of handles is self-explanatory and it makes heavier steel cylinders easier to carry on land since they tend to weigh more. Cylinder nets are typically made of mesh and their purpose is to protect the finishing on the tank as well as reduce corrosion of booted tanks.

Despite these benefits, these accessories come with a serious downside. The reason being, they are a snagging hazard when you are diving, and there is a serious risk of getting trapped underwater. For this reason alone, many veteran divers refuse to dive with these add-ons because the downsides far outweigh the benefits.

Brands

Only a handful of companies manufacture scuba tanks for the US market, and Catalina and Metal Impact are a couple of US based ones. Luxfer is yet another name to know, though they have stopped manufacturing aluminum cylinders in the US. We’ve noticed some Chinese manufactured AL80 tanks exported for the US market under the name Cyl-Tec. The Italian manufacturer Faber makes steel tanks for the US under the XS Scuba and Blue Steel brands, as well as its own.

There are little to no differences in quality between these scuba cylinder manufacturers. Of course, that is because they must all adhere to DOT specifications and each tank must pass testing and inspection by an independent agency.

We have found that Metal Impact cylinders tend to be more readily available at lower prices with the same high-quality as Luxfer and Catalina. Furthermore, veteran divers tend to prefer Luxfer over Catalina because their cylinders provide better trim characteristics and buoyancy for stage and sidemount applications. With that said, we found Metal Impact cylinders to have equal and sometimes even better buoyancy and trim than Luxfer. Lastly, Faber is the only manufacturer of galvanized steel scuba tanks.

General Care

Whether you choose a steel or an aluminum tank, you will need to maintain it well so that it will last a long time and function as intended. To that end, you should follow standard safety practices when handling them.

To begin, never leave a scuba tank standing. Make sure it is placed flat on the ground when not in use.

Next, do not try to fit incompatible valves with a 1st stage regulator. You can purchase an adapter in case you have a yoke tank with a DIN reg. On the other hand, yoke regulators can only handle 232 bar of pressure, and DIN tanks 300 bar, so it is highly dangerous to attempt to use them together. You can fill the DIN tank up to a maximum of 232 bar and use it with a yoke adapter, however this is risky and not recommended.

If you have an aluminum tank, perhaps your main concern will be the exterior of the tank since it is more susceptible to damage. If you own a steel tank, your priority will be the interior because you don’t want there to be any internal corrosion.

Lastly, all scuba tanks should be subject to a visual inspection once a year, and a full safety inspection (VIP or hydrotest) once every 5 years by a certified technician in an authorized service center.

How to Maintain Your Scuba Tank

A steel scuba tank can last up to 15 years through multiple safety inspections if you are taking proper care of it. How do you make your scuba tank last that long? Follow the steps outlined below. Scuba tank maintenance is vital if you want to prevent catastrophic failure and avoid endangering your life on a dive, so we highly recommend you perform these steps.

First, completely rinse your tank with freshwater after each dive, particularly if you’ve been diving in saltwater. Salt causes corrosion, so make sure to rinse thoroughly to keep grit from clogging the tank valve which would make it difficult to control the air supply if left unchecked.

Second, never store your cylinder when it is completely full or empty. It should always have some pressure in it to reduce the chances of internal contamination. Additionally, a fully pressurized cylinder may eventually crack. Store the scuba tank in a tank holder if possible or and make sure it is stored upright.

Next, make sure to rinse the regulator with fresh water as well. Let everything fully dry before placing it in storage. Also make sure the boot is removed during storage. Keep in mind that you should never leave scuba equipment in direct sunlight. The UV rays will deteriorate the materials, causing them to fade, weaken, and crack.

Lastly, scuba tanks must also pass certain safety inspections. We talk more about this in the FAQ section below.

Frequently Asked Questions

How long does a full tank last?

You can expect a full tank to last approximately 45-60 minutes. This is assuming the diver is an average open-water certified diver using a basic AL80 tank diving 40 feet down. However, this number is highly variable depending on a number of factors.

To start, the size of the cylinder affects its total air capacity, so a larger tank will provide a longer supply of air. However, having more air does not necessarily mean one will last longer underwater. You must also consider how deep you will dive.

The deeper you dive, the more atmospheres (ATA) of pressure there is which reduces how long a tank of air will last. Every 10m (33 ft) underwater increases the pressure by 1 ATA. With that in mind, starting at 0m there is 1 ATA of pressure and at a depth of 20m (66ft) there is 3 ATA worth of pressure. The air inside the tank gets compressed by the water pressure, so with 3 ATA of pressure, the air in the tank will only last ⅓ of the time at depth compared to 1 ATA of pressure.

Next, your level of physical fitness affects how much air you consume. As you swim, your muscles use up oxygen and your heart rate increases. You will feel the need to breathe larger breaths at a faster rate to replenish the oxygen in your body. If you are unfit, you will use up the air far faster than someone who is physically fit. That is why it is important to do cardiovascular training if you would like to have a longer bottom time.

In general, if you are diving casually at a depth less than 10m (33ft), using a standard size cylinder, it should be quite easy to make the tank last up to an hour or more. If you dive any deeper than that and you are also unfit, then the dive can be as short as 20 minutes. Professional divers are experts at controlling their movements and buoyancy to lengthen their bottom time as much as possible.

How much does it cost to fill a scuba tank?

The cost to fill your tank depends on your location and how much the local dive shops are charging. Generally, you can expect to spend around 10-15 dollars to fill a tank with a capacity around 3,000 PSI. Some dive shops may charge as low as five dollars to fill a tank. If you are unsatisfied with what you are being charged, you can shop around to get a better deal.

How often do scuba tanks need to be tested?

Scuba tanks are under strict regulation and they must meet the U.S. Department of Transportation’s (DOT) requirements for inspections. All scuba cylinders must be subject to two forms of inspection: the Visual Inspection (VIP) and the Hydrostatic Pressure Test (a.k.a. The Hydro Test). A licensed inspector must perform these tests at a US DOT approved testing facility. These tests are to ensure that tanks that have been in use for many years are still safe to use.

Visual inspections are conducted yearly and are given a sticker to indicate that it has passed inspection and when the next inspection is due. To be clear, the sticker expires on the first day of the month shown on the sticker.

In the US, hydrostatic pressure tests are conducted every 5 years. Your tank is considered expired on the last day of the month shown. When purchasing a tank, you must look for the sticker and hydro retest mark to ensure that they have not expired.

Any tank that has been visually inspected within the last 12 months, and hydro tested within the last 24 months, is considered recent. Thankfully, all scuba tanks sold must have already passed the first DOT certification and the yearly VIP. Furthermore, dive shops will not refill cylinders that have expired or have not yet been tested.

Closing Remarks

When purchasing a scuba cylinder, consider what your budget is and your diving plans for the future. Steel scuba tanks have an excellent lifespan and superior buoyancy characteristics, making it the optimal choice for most divers. When purchasing a steel tank, look for a hot-dip galvanized steel tank in a capacity that meets your needs even when it is underfilled. This solves any short fill concerns you may have.

If your budget is tight and you don’t plan on diving as much in the future, then aluminum has much lower initial costs. When shopping for an aluminum tank, choose a brushed finish and stay away from paints. Find a tank with a convertible valve with a 200 bar DIN outlet with K-insert. This is often abbreviated as ‘Pro DIN/K valve’. Unfortunately, the standard AL80 tank with K-valve is not an all-purpose tank. You may have to own several scuba tanks to maximize your diving enjoyment.

Best Snorkeling Gloves Review and Buying Guide

For many snorkelers, hand protection is something that is either not considered at all, or very low on their list of priorities. With snorkeling gloves you can keep your hands warm, have extra grip, and get extra protection against cuts. Snorkeling gloves don’t get talked about enough, and we feel that’s a mistake.

In this article, we will go over the benefits that snorkeling gloves provide as well as the top factors to consider when searching for one. We also provide a review of the best gloves for snorkeling currently on the market to help you save time. Even if you aren’t worried about cold hands, you should still wear gloves for protection. Read on to find out more.

Our Top Picks:

Best Gloves for Snorkeling: Recommendations

Tilos 1.5mm Reef Gloves

Tilos 1.5mm Tropical Dive Gloves Stretchy Mesh with Amara Leather for Snorkeling, Kayaking, Water...
  • HYPOALLERGENIC — All Tilos products are manufactured from 100 percent pure neoprene made from an exclusive formula called X-Foam, which is made from...
  • THERMAL PROTECTION — 1.5mm thickness helps to conserve body heat in cooler waters.
  • RELIABLE DURABILITY — Amara palms allows for maximum grip and endurance while protecting your hands from painful blisters, calluses and sunburns....

The Tilos 1.5mm reef gloves are made of a stretchy mesh material reinforced with amara leather, making it ideal for a variety of water sports such as snorkeling, kayaking, jet skiing, rafting, sailing, and scuba diving.

These gloves are considered to be one of the most durable gloves for snorkeling on the market, and that’s thanks to the various materials it is made from. Its main component is a synthetic leather called amara leather which will keep its shape no matter how rough the activity is. The palm side is made of a combination of thick neoprene rubber and amara leather. This offers you maximum palm protection and extra grip should you need to grab onto something.

Next, the backside of the Tilos gloves are constructed from a combination of neoprene mesh and amara leather. This lets some water flow in and out of the gloves and acts as a thermal vent via its micro holes so that it doesn’t get too warm inside the gloves. As for its stitching, the palm and thumb areas have been reinforced with tough stitches since this is where much of the hand activity occurs.

Wearing the Tilos gloves is a breeze thanks to the panel insertion material that is embedded internally inside the gloves that provides maximum comfort and stretchiness. Your hands should just slide in, and these gloves can be further secured using its wristband with adjustable hook and loop fastener. This fastening system helps to create a tight seal on a huge range of wrist sizes and ensures the gloves will stay on your hand.

Thanks to all of these features, the Tilos Reef Gloves can be used for a lot more than just snorkeling. Any water sports that require hand protection such as water skiing, white water rafting, kayaking, sailing, and scuba diving can all benefit from wearing these gloves. Many users have found that these gloves will quickly create a bent-finger effect that reduces overall hand strain and increases comfort.

As for getting the perfect fit, the Tilos gloves are based on men’s sizes. Female users should be aware of this and pick an appropriate size lower. One thing to keep in mind about these gloves is that they are designed primarily with hand protection in mind, and not as much for warmth. As such, these gloves are only intended for tropical and subtropical regions where the water is warm. It will not be very effective in temperate areas where the water is chillier.

Seavenger Abyss 1.5mm Dive Gloves

Seavenger Abyss Dive Gloves | 1.5mm Neoprene Mesh | Scuba Diving, Wakeboarding, Spearfishing (Red,...
  • THERMAL PROTECTION – 1.5mm thickness helps to conserve body heat in cooler waters.
  • DURABLE DESIGN – A reinforced palm and thumb ensure you’re ready for the toughest of challenges.
  • EASY GRIP – Amara leather palms allows for maximum grip and endurance.

The Seavenger Abyss dive gloves is designed to have a good balance of protection, mobility, and durability. It is made from a mix of neoprene rubber and a synthetic leather called amara, for an overall thickness of 1.5mm.

Additionally, the palm and thumb section has been reinforced to ensure that it holds up to rough usage while providing grip power and protection. Though the palm is rigid and tough, the topside of the gloves is made of a neoprene mesh that is soft and flexible so as not to restrict your finger movements.

Next, the Seavenger Abyss gloves simply slide over your hands thanks to the lycra panel insertion embedded into the gloves’ internals. Once your fingers make it through the wrist opening, they will slide all the way up to the fingertips in one smooth motion. Once the gloves are donned, you can secure it in place using the adjustable velcro wrist band.

In addition to the dexterity and warmth these gloves provide, the Seavenger Abyss also caters to your fashion style. It comes in 5 design variations and numerous sizes so you can pick the perfect one to suit your style. Pick from a range between XS and XXL.

Keep in mind that the Seavenger Abyss, like many dive gloves, do not keep your hands dry. In the same way that a wetsuit does not keep you dry yet still manages to insulate your body heat, many gloves for snorkeling follow the same design principle.

Furthermore, these gloves have a palm section reinforced by amara leather, and this can provide some protection if you grab onto a sharp edge. You are much less likely to experience cuts or scratches, such as from a rock or a fish hook while wearing these gloves. These gloves are designed to be used in warm waters, and we recommend wearing 3mm or thicker gloves for temperate or cold water use.

Darkfin 0.9mm Webbed Power Gloves

DarkFin Webbed Power Swimming Gloves (1 Pair) for Men, Women, Scuba Diving, Snorkeling,...
963 Reviews
DarkFin Webbed Power Swimming Gloves (1 Pair) for Men, Women, Scuba Diving, Snorkeling,...
  • IMAGINE IMPROVING YOUR PADDLE SPEED - dive gloves are made with 3-D web profile, which compared to your bare hand for propulsion, increases surface...
  • HANDLE OBJECTS EASILY - ultra-thin, 0.9 mm or 1/28 inch Second Skin scuba diving gloves give finger dexterity to pick small objects, to press small...
  • STAY LONGER IN THE WATER WITH WETSUIT GLOVES - this extra layer on your hands helps to keep them warmer, so you can enjoy catching waves or diving for...

If you are looking for a pair of gloves that offers hand protection and warmth, then the Darkfin Webbed Power Gloves may not be the optimal choice. What these gloves do excel at, however, is in helping you move quickly through the water with its webbed fingers. It is constructed from a lightweight latex material that is non-absorbent and designed to fit the hand’s natural contours.

Specifically, the Darkfin webbed power gloves are molded onto a 3D hand and includes a rear web design that is estimated to increase one’s swimming speed by 70%. It does not have any seams, and therefore does not need to be stitched or glued in any way. Each glove is molded into a single piece, so it doesn’t even need straps. With that said, to provide your fingers with some grip, the Darkfin is embedded with a cotton flock so you can handle slippery objects.

The Darkfin webbed gloves can be used for any water sport that involves swimming, such as snorkeling, freediving, and open water swimming. Keep in mind that the latex material has some inherent flaws that you need to be aware of.

First, the latex rubber easily sticks onto your hands when wet; this is good once they are on, but can be an issue if you are in the process of putting them on. To alleviate this, we recommend having a bottle of lotion or some kind of lubricant in case the gloves get wet before you have a chance to wear them. The lotion will help your hand slide in and displace the water inside.

Second, keep in mind that the latex used in these gloves are plant-based, meaning they are 100% biodegradable. You should therefore keep them out of direct sunlight, otherwise the UV rays may damage the materials and cause it to decompose. What many users do after washing and drying their gloves is place the gloves in a ziplock bag with baby powder or lubricant to provide a protective coating.

Lastly, since these gloves have no closure system and they can be a fit difficult to don, you need to select the right size. There are many size ranges to choose from, including men’s and women’s sizing, and even youth sizing. With the Darkfin Webbed Power Gloves, you can glide through the water with less effort, which helps you conserve energy while increasing your overall coverage.

BPS 3mm Neoprene Five Finger Gloves

BPS 3mm Neoprene Dive Gloves with Anti Slip Palm - Five Finger Gloves for Sailing, Spearfishing,...
  • HIGH-QUALITY NEOPRENE WETSUIT GLOVES - Protect your hands and grab a pair of our BPS Wetsuit Gloves now! Made with double-lined neoprene, glued &...
  • EXTRA GRIP & LESS FATIGUE - Each pair makes your hands move freely while reducing hand fatigue. Designed with an extra-grip textured palm that will...
  • DURABLE, COMFORTABLE & PROTECTIVE - These gloves are reinforced with double-lined neoprene for long-lasting performance. On top of that, they're glued...

The BPS neoprene gloves is one of the few snorkeling gloves designed for extended use even in temperate waters. It is available in two thicknesses: 3mm and 5mm. Regardless of which thickness you select, the BPS gloves have a double-lined neoprene rubber design which provides you with exceptional warmth.

As for protection, the BPS gloves feature a rubberized palm grip with seams that are stitched and glued for exceptional durability. These gloves are easy to don and once they are on, the velcro wrist straps secure tightly around your wrists to create a tight seal no matter your wrist size.

For the most part, your dexterity and freedom of movement should be relatively unhindered. The BPS gloves are designed to minimize heat loss from your extremities while providing total hand protection. For instance, if you look at the palm area of the BPS gloves, you’ll notice a textured grip on its pentagon-shaped rubber protrusion. This extra material reinforces the palm area as well as offers extra grip so that you can hold onto slippery objects.

Besides snorkeling, you can wear the BPS neoprene gloves for all other water sports as well. Many customers have left positive reviews on these gloves, saying that their overall experience was enjoyable. Some have mentioned the adjustable wristband ensures the gloves won’t dislodge or come off even in turbulent conditions.

What impressed customers the most was how effective the BPS gloves were at keeping their hands warm even in temperate and cold water conditions. Even just the 3mm version was capable of preventing any issues related to hand coldness. Some have even used these gloves during the winter and snowy conditions without issue.

As for sizing, the BPS gloves come in 3mm and 5mm thicknesses, with sizes ranging from XS to XXL, so there is sure to be a size for you. In addition to its insulating capabilities, these gloves are also available in various colors and patterns to suit your style. From a standard plain black to a highly fashionable floral pink design, both men and women can find something they like.

Neo Sport 3mm Neoprene Gloves

Sale
Neo-Sport womens 3MM & 5MM Premium Neoprene Five Finger Wetsuit Gloves with Gator Elastic Wrist...
  • Constructed from soft and flexible premium neoprene material.
  • Easy-flexing gloves deliver abrasion and thermal protection without sacrificing dexterity.
  • Glued and sewn seams ensure water integrity.

The Neo Sport neoprene wetsuit gloves are available in two thicknesses: 3mm and 5mm. Both versions are made of premium neoprene that is soft and highly flexible. Despite how thick it is, it surprisingly does not interfere with your hand’s dexterity and lets you easily manipulate your fingers as if you weren’t wearing gloves.

Furthermore, these gloves are pre-cut to suit most hand sizes and shapes. Each seam is also glued and sewn shut to ensure no leaks and tears will occur from them. The textured palm section of the Neo Sport gloves provide extra protection as well as additional grip to handle slippery objects without issue.

While the Neo Sport gloves have a tight fit and thick materials, these gloves will easily slide into your hands thanks to its streamlined design. Additionally, the wrist opening of these gloves use a gator elastic closure that you can wear under your wetsuit sleeve to provide extra comfort and warmth. This adjustable wrist strap is placed a few inches before the edge.

Outside of snorkeling, the Neo Sport gloves are a highly versatile, all-purpose pair of gloves that can be used for other aquasports or for general maintenance purposes. For instance, you can use it to clear backed-up gutters, to scrub an aquarium or deploy aquarium accessories, to clean your swimming pool, or any activity where your hand can get wet. The extra protection it provides will keep your skin away from chemicals and from getting scratched up.

These gloves even passed a dexterity test where it was used to operate electronic devices with a touchscreen, and the user was able to press each key easily. Some activities where these gloves are NOT suitable are rappelling and rock climbing since these sports require a completely dry grip.

Keep in mind, the Neo Sports wetsuit gloves are not designed to keep your hands dry. They are designed to keep your hands warm and to protect them, and it does so by trapping the heat your body produces and some of the water that enters, creating a thin layer of warm water that will keep your hands warm. This way, you can prevent heat loss from occurring through your extremities so that you can continue exploring the cold water environment for longer.

Snorkeling Gloves Benefits

There are two main reasons why you should wear gloves for snorkeling.

Warmth

If you spend a long time snorkeling in the water it’s very likely that your hands will start to feel cold after 30 minutes or so. Your fingers will not be as responsive as they could be when they are cold. Furthermore, a significant portion of your body’s heat loss occurs through your fingers. That is why you should wear gloves to keep them warm.

Most gloves for diving and snorkeling are made from neoprene, a comfortable, warm, and corrosion-resistant material. Neoprene is an excellent insulator because of the tiny bubbles trapped inside it. These bubbles not only trap the heat but they are also quite buoyant which helps you stay afloat.

Keep in mind, not all gloves are designed to keep your hands dry. Most gloves allow water to enter the gloves and touch your skin. How it keeps you warm is by trapping the heat produced by your body, warming the thin layer of water inside the gloves, and basically letting you swim with this layer of warm water surrounding you. The gloves should be sufficiently tight enough that the warm water is mostly trapped inside. If that water is constantly flushed out and replaced by cold water, then the gloves aren’t keeping you warm.

With that said, if you are snorkeling in tropical waters and your hands aren’t cold at all, there is still a good reason to wear snorkeling gloves for protection.

Protection

Gloves do more than just keep your hands warm. They are also like a second layer of protective skin that can keep your hands from getting scratched up.

As an aside, you should NOT be touching marine life. Many coral die because humans touch it or otherwise disturb the surrounding area, and this is already enough to cause it to seriously harm it. Also, reaching out to a fish, turtle, or other sea creature may cause it to react defensively and this can be dangerous. Whatever you do, keep your hands to yourself and simply observe.

So why do you need gloves then? Even if you keep your hands to yourself, accidents can still happen. Perhaps you get carried away in a large wave, or a rogue current drags you away, or somebody bumps into you. This can unexpectedly cause you to come into contact with rocks or coral. We are not against grabbing onto things if you are being swept away; it may literally save your life.

With a pair of gloves on, in the event that you DO need to grab onto something, it will protect your hands from scratches or cuts. The gloves can also provide better grip so that you can easily hold onto objects while underwater.

When You Shouldn’t Wear Snorkeling Gloves

Some areas specifically prohibit snorkelers/divers from wearing gloves. The reason is because many people become emboldened by the gloves; they feel that because they are protected, they have the freedom to touch or grab everything underwater.

When people touch coral with or without gloves, they can cause damage or kill the coral. This is the reason why there has been such a huge decline in coral reefs over the years. In areas where there is a high number of tourists, the coral there has been all but wiped out.

If you plan on wearing snorkeling gloves, make sure that the destination you will be going to allows it. Furthermore, don’t touch the coral or other sea life just because you are wearing gloves. Be part of the solution to the problem, not the cause!

Snorkeling Gloves Buying Guide

Fit

One of the most crucial factors in a pair of gloves is the fit. This not only affects its insulating capabilities, but also how comfortable the gloves are. To ensure a proper fit, following these steps.

The first thing to do is to determine if the gloves fit snugly. When you slide your hands in, you should feel some resistance without struggling to fit it on. Keep in mind that donning and doffing becomes significantly harder when wet, so do it when dry.

Once the gloves are on, try bending your fingers and then making a fist. There should not be any strong pinching or squeezing in your palm and fingers. This indicates that something is too tight and can cause a painful squeeze when snorkeling.

Remember that you want gloves that are tight enough to keep most water out or you’ll lose crucial warmth. However, the closures should not be so tight that it restricts blood flow to your hands or severely impairs your movement. If a glove is too tight on land, it will only get more uncomfortable in the water, particularly if you’re diving.

Style

Diving and snorkeling gloves come in three main styles. Which type is best for you depends on how cold the water is and how much dexterity you want to maintain underwater.

Open fingers gloves only cover your palm and the bottom half of each finger, leaving the tips unprotected. This type offers the least amount of insulation and protection to give you greater freedom and dexterity to move your fingers around. This is ideal if you need to operate a GoPro camera or other equipment underwater.

Full finger gloves completely cover your palm and fingers individually. It provides more protection and insulation than open finger gloves. However, you lose dexterity and will find it harder to manipulate objects underwater. If you want more warmth and protection and don’t need to operate equipment underwater, this is the ideal choice.

The last type of gloves are mittens. You are unlikely to wear mittens for snorkeling since they are designed for cold climates. These gloves cover your fingers together so that they can warm each other up. However, this makes it difficult or impossible to manipulate equipment in general. This is the ultimate choice for hand insulation, but for warm water snorkeling purposes the other glove types are more practical

Thickness

Gloves are available in a wide range of thicknesses, from 1mm on the thin end to as thick as 7mm or more. Since the focus of this article is on warm to temperate water snorkeling, the glove thickness you will need is around 1-3mm.

The thicker the gloves are, the better they are at insulating but also the less dexterity you will have. In this case, bigger is not better. You need to select the right glove thickness for the water conditions you will be using them in, and in this case thinner gloves are the best choice. This will give you the protection you need without restricting your movements.

Another consideration is how far you can bend your fingers with your gloves. A glove that is 7mm thick is not going to have as much flexibility as a 1mm glove. One way to maintain a high level of dexterity with thicker gloves is for the gloves to have anatomically correct bent fingers to alleviate this issue. This will surely improve your dexterity and grip and prevent painful pinching of your fingers if it has already been pre-bent.

Fasteners

How your gloves close affect how secure the gloves are on your hands and how much insulation the gloves can provide. The most basic design is simply a flexible wrist with no closure that you simply slide on and off your hands.

The next most common type is a zip fastener. Simply pull the zipper to tighten or loosen it on your hands. Another type of closure are velcro straps.

You may find gloves with various other closure types such as forearm gauntlets, semi-dry cuffs and hook and loop systems. As long as you picked the right size gloves, these are all effective ways to insulate your hands and keep the gloves secured on them.

Seams

Gloves for snorkeling and diving have seams just like a wetsuit. In general, the fewer seams there are, the fewer possible entry points for water to seep through. If your glove has seams, then it will have been made in the following way.

First, the most basic type of seam is sewn using a flatlock or blind stitch style. Gloves designed for cold water use have their seams stitched and glued shut. The warmest models use a triple sealing method involving blind-stitching, glue, and tape for the most watertight seal.

Materials

The vast majority of gloves are made from user-friendly fabrics like neoprene, rubber, and Lycra. These materials on their own provide insulation but not much in the way of protection. To solve this issue, manufacturers supplement their gloves with highly durable materials such as Kevlar or titanium.

They will attach a thin layer of these materials on the palm and beneath the fingers. These materials don’t just make the gloves durable; they also provide extra grip so that you can easily grab onto surfaces or manipulate your camera.

Multi-Sport

Dive gloves are highly versatile. You can use them for a variety of water sports other than diving and snorkeling such as kayaking, paddleboarding, and fishing. If you intend on using it as such, then you need to select a material that is fast-drying and also flexible so you can maintain the dexterity you need to perform these activities.

Gusseted

Gussets are a small layer of flexible material that is used to widen a glove’s wrist. This extra space makes it easier to don and doff the glove. It also provides additional warmth since it folds on itself, forming a thicker piece of layered fabric.

Liners

If your gloves have a moisture-wicking liner, it can help your gloves dry faster and reduce bacteria growth in your gloves. Furthermore, this feature can also provide better insulation and prevent the musty smell that wet dive gear can sometimes have. With that said, no matter what your gloves are made from, you should be drying them inside out so that the insides can dry as fast as possible.

Some gloves even have a removable liner to give you more options to use your gloves. These models are layered by using a glove base and allowing you to dive with or without the liner. You can also remove the liner for faster drying.

Mini Air Tanks for Snorkeling – What You Should Know

There’s more to snorkeling than just passively floating at the surface and observing from a distance. If you see something interesting but it’s a few meters below you, haven’t you ever wanted to dive down to get a closer look? The problem is that when you do, you can’t breathe through your snorkel anymore and perhaps you don’t have the lung capacity to enjoy the view up close for very long. However, with a mini air tank for snorkeling you can continue to breathe underwater like a scuba diver.

A refillable air tank for snorkeling can help you maximize your snorkeling experience. Maybe you tried to dive down in the past, only to surface seconds later because you ran out of oxygen or got too anxious. Using a mini air tank, you can bring along an extra 3-5 minutes of oxygen and you don’t have to use it all at once. Think about how much more marine life you could see in short bursts without the impending feeling of needing to surface. How much more enjoyable would your snorkeling experience be?

Today, we will be looking at small air tanks for snorkeling. Specifically, we will be reviewing the best ones and also discussing the objections people have against using a mini air tank. We will look at the pros and cons objectively and let you decide if you still want one or not. Let’s get into it.

Our Top Pick:

SMACO Scuba Tank Diving Gear for Diver 1L Mini Scuba Tank with 15-20 Minutes Small Emergency Backup...
134 Reviews
SMACO Scuba Tank Diving Gear for Diver 1L Mini Scuba Tank with 15-20 Minutes Small Emergency Backup...
  • 🏊【UNIQUE DESIGN】:S400 pro mini scuba tank uses an extension tube to connect to the pressure gauge, which is more convenient for us to check the...
  • 🏊【LARGER CAPACITY BUT PORTABLE】: SMACO mini diving tank has a capacity of 1L and can breathe underwater for 15-20 minutes. At the same time,...
  • 🏊【BOARD THE PLANE】:After you disassemble the scuba tank, you can take it on the plane and go diving anywhere. It has safe depth limit of about...

What are Mini Air Tanks for Snorkeling?

Mini air tanks are smaller versions of scuba tanks that are designed to be lightweight and compact so that you can dive underwater without the bulk of a full scuba set. They provide approximately 0.5-1L of air, which is enough to enjoy the marine life underwater in short bursts. They were originally designed to be a redundant air source for scuba divers in case something goes wrong with their main tank.

Nowadays, people have realized that mini air tanks have more practical uses outside of scuba diving. One such way is to use mini air tanks for snorkeling. Since they are so small and lightweight, you can bring it with your snorkeling gear without much hassle. When you see something that catches your eye a few meters below, you can switch from your snorkel mouthpiece to the mini air tank mouthpiece and dive down to get a closer look without cutting off your air supply.

Depending on the size of the tank, you may be able to get 3-5 minutes of air or more. You can use it in 15 second bursts, a minute at a time, all in one go, or however long you want each interval to be. This allows you to dive a few times before you need to refill your air tank. This allows snorkelers to bridge the gap between snorkeling and diving. Furthermore, snorkelers don’t need to undergo breath-holding training if they use a mini air tank instead.

Mini Air Tank Safety Concerns – Read Before Buying

The concept of a mini air tank seems good on paper. After all, the air capacity is too small to allow for deep diving, and snorkelers are supposed to stay by the surface anyways, so what’s the issue? Unfortunately, there are quite a few.

First, if you have little to no experience with breath-holding or swimming in general, you should not use a mini air tank. Ideally, you should be a confident swimmer and have some diving experience already. If this does not describe you, then please just stick to a traditional snorkel set or a full-face mask, wear some kind of flotation device, and don’t even think about diving until you get more experience.

Second, read and more importantly, follow the safety guidelines to a T. You know how you usually toss away the manuals without reading it? Well, read that manual fully. Your life depends on it. Do not even think about deviating from it. If it tells you not to dive more than 6m underwater, then don’t. If it tells you to not hold your breath while ascending then don’t. The moment you decide to ignore these warnings is the moment your safety is in serious jeopardy.

Third, understand that the deeper you dive, the higher the risk of injury to you. The further you dive, the less effective air you have. If your mini air tank doesn’t have a pressure gauge, then you should be mentally keeping track of how much air you might have left. You don’t want to be caught off-guard with no air, so it’s better to err on the side of caution.

Let’s talk about each of these risks in more detail.

Loss of Air Supply

Depending on which mini air tank you purchase, this may or may not be a problem. The refillable air tanks we recommend come with their own carrying bags so that they will remain on your person at all times. Furthermore, they also come with a mouthpiece connected to a long hose to make breathing from the tank easier.

Some mini air tanks have the mouthpiece attached to the tank itself. This means that you are literally holding the entire mini tank in your mouth. What happens if your mouth fatigues? Or if you lose your grip on the mouthpiece for any reason? Then you’ve just lost your portable air supply, and if this happens a few meters underwater, it may be quite dangerous.

Not Following/Forgetting the Safety Guidelines

How many people actually read the instruction manuals that come with their products? And even if they do, do they follow it exactly as printed? If a manual is too boring to read through, then at least watch the video below. Note: the following instructions only apply to the SCORKL product.

Lack of Gauges

After reading the instructions, you will notice that the mini air tank can only be used at a water temperature above 15°C, and that it can only handle 3,000 psi (200 bar) of pressure. However, even if you know this information, there’s not much you can do with it if you don’t have a temperature gauge or pressure gauge to inform you of the current situation.

Without these gauges, the best you can do is make an educated guess. A higher quality mini air tank will come with its own pressure gauge. This will let you know how much air is remaining and when you should head back to refill it. When refilling, the pressure gauge will be useful to know when you should stop.

Pulmonary Barotrauma (Lung Expansion; Extremely Deadly)

If you hold your breath while ascending, you are at serious risk of experiencing pulmonary barotrauma, more commonly known as lung expansion. It is exactly what it sounds like; if your lungs are full of air as you ascend, the change in pressure can cause your lungs to expand beyond capacity and this can lead to death.

Even just small changes in pressure, such as at depths over 1m (3 ft) can cause lung expansion. There are even documented cases where people in swimming pools have suffered from it. We can generalize this by saying all divers at any depth are at risk of pulmonary barotrauma.

The main causes of lung expansion are: breath-holding during ascent, rapid ascents, and pre-existing lung conditions. To minimize the risk of lung expansion, never hold your breath. Always be breathing continuously, or exhaling throughout the ascent. Do not ascend rapidly; scuba divers ascend at a rate of 10m (33ft) per minute, for reference. If you have a history of lung problems, consult a medical professional first before diving.

Any sort of diving is inherently risky. Even by following the above advice, you still experience other symptoms such as decompression sickness (the bends) and nitrogen narcosis, in addition to pulmonary barotrauma. For this reason, always dive with a buddy so you can watch each other’s backs.

Consensus

While it’s true that there are many risks involved with using a mini air tank, keep in mind that any and all water sports activities are inherently risky. Scuba diving and freediving, for instance, are way riskier than anything described in this article. Yet does that deter people? No! That’s why there is something called the Open Water course, and why divers get certified. Rather than cower in fear, get educated and learn how to perform these activities safely.

As such, the consensus is that mini air tanks can be good if you know how to use them and how to avoid the risks. If you are staying within the guidelines and using it properly, then you should be relatively safe for the most part. There is nothing wrong with using a mini air tank as a redundant air source for scuba diving, for instance. If you are not an experienced snorkeler or diver, and have no idea how air behaves in tanks underwater, then stay far away from portable air tanks.

SMACO S400 – Best Mini Air Tank for Snorkeling

SMACO Scuba Tank Diving Gear for Diver 1L Mini Scuba Tank with 15-20 Minutes Small Emergency Backup...
134 Reviews
SMACO Scuba Tank Diving Gear for Diver 1L Mini Scuba Tank with 15-20 Minutes Small Emergency Backup...
  • 🏊【UNIQUE DESIGN】:S400 pro mini scuba tank uses an extension tube to connect to the pressure gauge, which is more convenient for us to check the...
  • 🏊【LARGER CAPACITY BUT PORTABLE】: SMACO mini diving tank has a capacity of 1L and can breathe underwater for 15-20 minutes. At the same time,...
  • 🏊【BOARD THE PLANE】:After you disassemble the scuba tank, you can take it on the plane and go diving anywhere. It has safe depth limit of about...

The SMACO S400 is a mini air tank with 1L of air capacity which can provide 340 underwater breaths, or approximately 10-15 minutes of diving time. With a weight of 5.07 pounds along with its portable bag, the S400 is lightweight and easy to carry around while snorkeling and diving. This frees up your hands to swim freely, without the bulk of a scuba set.

First off, the S400 avoids a lot of the design flaws that much of the competition has. The portable bag means it’s convenient to carry on your person without experiencing jaw fatigue or occupying your hand. It comes with its own regulator and hose so that you don’t have to hold the entire tank in your mouth like a lot of the other tanks expect you to. When you want to dive, simply switch from your snorkel mouthpiece to the S400’s and start diving.

Next, the SMACO S400 is compatible with all kinds of pumps, be it a hand pump, a high-pressure inflator, or another scuba tank. This gives you the option to fill this device how you want, whatever is the most convenient for you. The built-in pressure gauge will let you know when you need to refill it and when it’s full. You can snorkel with peace of mind with this vital information.

Furthermore, the S400 is very durable thanks to the aluminum alloys it is constructed from. This small air tank resists internal corrosion and can take a beating. Of course, it’s strong enough to hold large volumes of compress gas up to 3,000 psi (200 bar). Keep in mind this product does NOT come with an inflator; you will need to purchase one separately. Overall, the quality of the S400 is very high and it is perhaps the best mini air tank for snorkeling on the market.

How Effective are Mini Air Tanks?

How long can you breathe underwater with a mini air tank? How long does it take to refill? The average capacity of a mini air tank is 0.5L, and larger ones have a capacity of 1L. Assuming the half liter tank has been pressurized to 3,000 psi (200 bar), that means you have around 75 litres of air before the pressure drops below 50 bar.

It’s difficult to measure how long it takes for this to occur because air consumption is variable. We have to consider whether you are floating calmly by the surface or if you’ve been swimming and increasing your heart rate. At rest, the average adult has a breathing rate of 12-20 cycles (inhale and exhale) per minute. If a normal breath contains approximately 0.5L of air, then it would theoretically be possible to have close to 10 minutes worth of oxygen in a mini air tank. However, that doesn’t tell the whole story.

What happens if you are not a healthy adult? Perhaps you have a lung condition. Furthermore, if you’ve been swimming, the exertion could cause you to take deeper breaths (say, 1.5L per). At 20 times a minute, you can burn through your oxygen supply in 2 minutes or less. Once again, there’s more to this story.

If you are, say, 10m underwater, the volume of air in your body decreases by half. This translates to about a little over a minute before your air supply runs out. In other words, you cannot assume the conditions to be absolutely perfect. Whatever a product says on its sales page in regards to how long you can dive for, expect it to be half as effective just to be safe.

How to Refill the Mini Air Tank

There are three ways to refill your mini air tank. The first is to use a hand pump. Your air tank may have an air pump included, or you may have to purchase it separately. This method of refilling the air is the most labor intensive because you will literally have to pump 300-400 times to fill a 0.5L tank. Double that number for a 1L tank. This process is not only tiring, but time-consuming.

The next two options are hands-off, but require a significant investment. One is to invest in an electric air pump. It should refill your air tank in about 15-20 minutes or so. Double that number if you’re filling up a 1L tank. At least you don’t have to pump the air yourself.

Finally, the fastest and most effective way to fill your tank is to use another scuba tank. This can fill your mini air tank in mere seconds. The issue is that you would need to own a scuba tank and be able to fill that. And if you own a regular scuba tank, why don’t you just scuba dive?

Closing Thoughts

Mini air tanks for snorkeling are an interesting idea, however their purpose in the market is often called into question. They have considerable risks involved with them since they are marketed to the layperson that may not have enough training to safely use them. A selling point for them is that the user can experience what it’s like to scuba dive without the training, which is concerning. Nevertheless, if the user has some diving experience and knows how to use them properly, then they can be fun and useful.

If you still want to try out a mini air tank for snorkeling, then make sure you are fit for diving and are following the instructions perfectly. Remember that you are using this device at your own risk. Be aware of your (and the product’s) limitations, dive with a buddy, and you should be able to improve your snorkeling sessions tremendously.