A mini scuba tank is a lightweight and portable version of a regular scuba tank. It is designed to be a backup air source for scuba divers, but nowadays it is also used recreationally. It allows users to get a sense of what it is like to dive without investing in a bunch of scuba equipment or getting dive certified. You can’t dive for very long with a mini scuba tank, so they should only be used in shallow waters or as a redundant air source when diving.

Mini diving tanks also have some utility outside of water sports, such as an oxygen reserve in the event of a fire emergency. However you plan on using it, in this article we will be reviewing the best mini scuba tanks so that you can get one that suits your needs. We will also answer common questions and go over the pros and cons of using a mini scuba tank.

Our Top Picks:

Mini Scuba Tanks: Read This Before You Buy

Before you purchase a mini scuba tank, there are a few things you should be aware of. Many people make the mistake of rushing out to buy one only to realize that it wasn’t what they expected. To avoid this, please read this section first before you make any decisions.

How long does a mini scuba tank last?

First of all, let’s answer what you’re probably thinking about right now: compared to a regular scuba tank, how long does a mini scuba tank last?

It depends on the capacity of the tank. For instance, a small 0.5L (30 cu in) tank can last approximately 50-60 mouthfuls of air, or anywhere from 2-8 minutes depending on your depth and your physical exertion. If you are near the surface and conserving energy, you can make it last nearly 10 minutes. If you are deeper than that or exerting a lot of physical effort, then it may only last 2-3 minutes. For a larger 1L tank, simply double those numbers.

On the other hand, a regular scuba tank can last up to an hour. Furthermore, regular scuba tanks are filled with mixed gases, so even the air used is different. It’s clear that mini divingtanks aren’t designed for deep dives (except as a redundant air source), however they still have their practical uses which we will discuss in a later section.

How long does it take to fill a mini scuba tank?

A major selling point of mini scuba tanks is that you technically don’t need any fancy equipment to use it. You can easily purchase the tank itself, a hand pump, and you can start using it, no compressor necessary. This sounds idyllic until you realize that using the hand pump to fill the tank is exhausting and time-consuming.

Since the mini scuba tank is so small, you really have to fill it with air to get any practical use out of it. You will literally have to pump it by hand for 10-15 minutes just to fill it up. A 1L tank may tank up to half an hour. If you have to take frequent breaks, then it will take even longer. And then for all of your hard work, you are rewarded with only a few short minutes of extra air while diving. If you are using a hand pump to fill your mini scuba tank, in terms of time and effort spent, it’s hardly worth it.

Ideally, you should use a compressor or a large air cylinder with a refill adapter to dramatically speed up this process. Otherwise, get ready for an intense cardio workout.

How should you use a mini scuba tank?

These small underwater breathing devices were originally designed to be used as a backup tank for scuba divers in case their main tank failed. Most are designed to be safely used for diving within a depth of 10m, and if used as a spare air source, then do not dive deeper than 30m.

Over the years, mini scuba tanks have begun to be marketed as a recreational device to allow users who have never scuba dived before to experience a casual version of it. There’s nothing wrong with doing this, however keep in mind how long it takes to fill up a mini scuba tank by hand and how quickly it is used up. It’s up to you to determine if it’s worth the effort just for recreational use.

Warning: Do NOT use mini scuba tanks for freediving. If you take a full breath from your tank and then ascend rapidly, you run the risk of over-expanding your lungs and possibly dying. This phenomenon can occur within depths of 10m (33 ft) which is probably where you will be spending most of your time.

As we mentioned, you can use the mini scuba tank for casual, shallow diving. If you’ve never been good at holding your breath but always wanted to experience what it is like to have the lung capacity of a world class freediver, then you can certainly have some fun with a mini scuba tank. You can finally dive up close to experience the underwater world up front instead of by the surface.

Lastly, mini scuba tanks are highly versatile and practical. Despite their name, who said they can only be used for water activities? Any situation where you need access to some extra air is the perfect time to use the mini scuba tank.

Now that you know what mini scuba tanks are capable of and how they should be used, if you are still interested in buying one, then let’s head on to our review of the best ones.

Best Mini Scuba Tanks: Recommendations

SMACO S400

If you’re looking for a portable scuba tank with a respectable 1L (60 cu in) of air capacity, then the SMACO S400 is an ideal choice. The S400 will let you breathe for an additional 10 minutes underwater, and it comes equipped with a real time pressure gauge so you know exactly how much time you have left. With this feature, you can have peace of mind with how to pace yourself when surfacing.

Since this is a 1L tank, it weighs a bit more than smaller tanks at 5.07 pounds. Thankfully, it comes with a bag so you can conveniently bring it with you on your travels. It also lets you easily carry it when you’re in the water.

Next, the S400 comes with a refill adapter so you can easily fill it up in seconds if you connect it to a large air cylinder. You can also fill it using an electric air pump, otherwise you should roll up your sleeves and get ready to hand pump it 800-1000 times to fully refill it. These three options are how you can refill all mini scuba tanks, so pick the one that is most convenient for you.

Lastly, the SMACO S400 is made from durable, high-strength aluminum alloys. It is designed to last for years by resisting internal corrosion and resist damage from impacts or scratches. This cylinder is intended to store large volumes of compressed gas up to 3,000 psi (200 bar) and can’t be used for mixes containing more than 40% oxygen.

Spare Air 3000

The Spare Air 3000 is yet another reliable compact oxygen tank. While its main purpose is to be used as a spare air source when diving, it can also be used for maintenance work on kayaks and boats. Its compact size makes traveling and going underwater with it a good solution for a short period of time.

Another potential use for the Spare Air is in case of a possible fire. The Spare Air can provide the necessary clean oxygen to prevent CO2 inhalation. When the tank is empty, simply use the included adapter to refill from a scuba tank or manually use a hand pump. It is rated for 3,000 psi (200 bar), so make sure to fill it up to the max to get your money’s worth.

While there’s lots to like about the Spare Air 3000, it’s not perfect. One downside in particular is the fact that it doesn’t come with a pressure gauge indicator. This makes it harder for users to know how much air to add to the tank, or when they are going to run out of air during a dive. With that said, you can purchase one separately, but we wish it came with the original package. Still, this is a great mini diving tank for emergency uses.

Best Compressor for Your Mini Scuba Tank

As we mentioned, refilling a mini scuba tank can be a pain if you are doing it manually with a hand pump. The fastest way is to connect it to a larger air cylinder to refill it in seconds. However, this requires you to have access to a larger tank and to be able to fill that up. So the middle ground is to own an electric air pump if you plan on using your mini scuba tank frequently. This is the one we recommend:

GX CS2 Portable PCP Air Compressor

The GX CS2 is a portable electric air compressor that doesn’t require a water pump, water hose, oil, and best of all, it’s quiet. If you have an electrical plug and play outlet, can distinguish from red and black, + and -, and know how to flip a switch, then you can also easily use this machine.

Whether you are charging at home, or out abroad using a car battery for energy, the GX CS2 can charge a 1L mini diving tank in about 10-15 minutes. The inflation pressure can reach up to 4,500 psi (300 bar), more than capable for a small tank. Keep in mind that it’s designed for a maximum air tank of 1L, so don’t over do it. After charging a tank, you should let it cool down for an hour to not fry the 12V compressor.

Is it slow to fill a tank? No, not for what it does. You will fill your scuba tank faster than you can hand pump it, and you can be off to the side having a drink as this does all of the heavy lifting for you. Weighing only 6.7kg, you can easily carry it with you wherever you go. Take it with you on your diving trip so you can fill up your mini tank multiple times.

If you need a compressor that is fast, quiet, and oil-free, then you should definitely get rid of your hand pump and use the GX CS2 air compressor instead. The only drawback is that it does not have an auto-shutoff feature, and this is available online in a more expensive model.

Mini Scuba Tank Buying Guide

Finding a good mini scuba tank is a lot easier than you might think. They are relatively straightforward devices with little variation between functionality and design between brands. Basically, as long as they do what they say they can do, then it’s probably good enough. With that said, let’s go over some considerations you should keep in mind when purchasing a mini scuba tank.

Size

The size of the mini scuba tank plays a role in how much air it can hold and how portable it is. Typically, the smallest size tank weighs about 3 lbs, with a 0.5L air capacity (30 cu in, approximately 50-60 mouthfuls of air). Larger ones weigh about 5lbs with a 1L (60 cu in) air capacity and last about twice as long. They are typically made from aluminum which is a lightweight material.

Mouthpiece

Just like if you are snorkeling or scuba diving, the mouthpiece on the mini diving tank should be comfortable. Modern mouthpieces are made from silicone which is comfortable, easy-to-clean, and sterile. Typically, the mouthpiece cannot be replaced. After each dive, you should thoroughly clean it to get rid of bacteria and any lingering odors.

Connector

In order to get the right fit, the mini scuba tank needs to have the right connector. The popular Yoke and DIN connectors should fit all of the tanks we have reviewed. But if for some reason it doesn’t fit, then there are adapters for all kinds of connectors.

Parting Words

While mini scuba tanks have a limited use, they still serve a good purpose as a backup tank while diving. If used for this purpose, it is well worth it to purchase a mini scuba tank. You never know when your main gear might fail, so having some redundancies can literally save your life.

On the other hand, if used recreationally, the value proposition drops dramatically. It takes a lot of work pumping a mini scuba tank by hand. Expect to pump approximately 400 times just to fill up the smallest mini scuba tank (0.5L). This is not only exhausting but also time consuming. You will have to pump twice as long to fill a larger tank. And all of that hard work results in just a few minutes of casual diving. Using a compressor is the easiest way to fill a mini scuba tank, but then you might as well use it on a regular scuba tank.

With this information in mind, it’s up to you whether it’s worth it for you to purchase a mini scuba tank or not. If you are using it for its originally intended purpose as a backup, then we highly recommend it. You can try using it recreationally, but we personally feel it’s more worth it to just learn how to scuba dive with a regular scuba tank.

A submersible pressure gauge is an essential piece of scuba equipment and you need a reliable one to stay safe underwater. The SPG tracks how much air is remaining in your scuba tank. Sometimes it comes with a depth gauge that shows what your current depth is. Without this information, it’s like you’re diving blind. The best submersible pressure gauge will ensure that you get these essential pieces of information so that you can make smarter decisions while diving.

Nowadays, many divers use dive computers to provide digital depth information. Yet, we still say an SPG is essential to have around in case something goes wrong with the dive computer. Today, you can get both the SPG and depth gauge combined into a single, handy console that is mounted at the end of a high-pressure hose. Some consoles even include a compass and temperature gauge.

In this article, we will review the best scuba pressure gauges on the market as well as provide an overview of the top factors you should consider when shopping for one. We also answer the most common questions in the FAQ section, so without any further ado, let’s get started with the review.

Our Top Picks:

Best Submersible Pressure Gauge: Recommendations

Aqua Lung 2 Gauge Console

• Depth Rating: 200 ft (60m)
• Max Pressure: 5,000 psi (350 bar)
• Materials: Injection molded plastic
• Reading Options: Metric / Imperial

If you’ve rented an SPG before, chances are you’ve already come across the Aqua Lung 2-gauge console. This is perhaps one of the best-selling and popular 2-gauge consoles. The SPG used in this console has a readout up to 350 bar (5,000 psi) and has a red color zone for low air starting on 50 bar (725 psi).

Aside from having a large face, the markings on the Aqua Lung 2-gauge are clear and mark intervals of 50 bar (725 psi). Located at the bottom of the SPG is an internal thermometer gauge that can measure from 0 to 100F.

At the top of the console is the depth gauge which has a readout from 0 to 60 m (200 ft) and a maximum depth indicator needle. One thing to be aware of is the intervals of the markings on the depth gauge. They are not equally divided; it starts off at 3-meter intervals then suddenly jumps up to 10-meter intervals which can be confusing if you didn’t realize it.

Lastly, if you turn this dive console over, you’ll notice a white circular plastic sheet that can be used as a writing slate.

Features:

• Pressure and depth gauge, with an internal thermometer gauge.
• Plastic sheet on the back can be used as a writing slate.
• Maximum depth indicator needle tracks deepest depth reached in a dive.

Mares Mission 2

• Depth Rating: 230 ft (70 m)
• Max Pressure: 5,000 psi (350 bar)
• Materials: Techno polymer, brass, elastomer rubber
• Reading Options: Imperial

Divers who frequently travel with their gear know how important it is when it comes to saving space. The Mares Mission 2 is a highly-rated SPG that is durable enough for daily use. On top of that, it weighs a bit over half a pound, and is lightweight and compact enough to squeeze into most gear bags.

The Mares Mission 2 utilizes color coding, luminescent dials, and fluorescent needles to make it one of the easiest displays to read from. If you are diving without a dive computer, you’ll appreciate that this SPG comes with a maximum depth indicator. This feature will track the deepest depth reached for every dive so that you can do all of the planning and logging easily.

Features:

• Color-coded indicators.
• Lightweight and portable.
• Maximum Depth Indicator (MDI) marks maximum depth for each dive.
• Fluorescent dial is highly visible even in the dark.

Scubapro 3-Gauge Inline Console

• Depth Rating: 200 ft (60 m)
• Max Pressure: 6,000 psi (400 bar)
• Materials: Tempered glass, injection molded plastic, polycarbonate
• Reading Options: Metric

With its 3 gauges, the Scubapro 3G looks a bit unwieldy at first glance. It’s true that this is one of the larger SPGs on this list, but despite how it looks, it’s actually one of the best SPGs on the market. First, it’s an all-in-one SPG that displays the pressure, depth, direction at all times.

Its durable exterior can be used in the toughest of diving conditions and it can take the occasional knock like a champ. Its recessed instrument faces will keep the faces scratch-free for years to come. Most importantly, the gauge is easy to use and read from. Thanks to its luminescence, color-coding, and oversized numbers, you will always be able to read from this under any condition.

Features:

• Color-coded indicators.
• Analog compass for easier navigation.
• Mounting points for lanyard or clips.
• Maximum depth indicator needle tracks maximum depth during a dive.

Scubapro U-Line

• Depth Rating: 200 ft (60 m)
• Max Pressure: 6,000 psi (400 bar)
• Materials: Tempered glass, non-corrosive plastic, rubber
• Reading Options: Metric / Imperial

Are you new to diving? If so, you’ll want a beginner-friendly and uncomplicated gauge that can provide precise readings while withstanding wear and tear. The Scubapro U-Line comes with the basic functionality that a diver needs, and none of the fluff that you won’t ever use, making it an ideal SPG for beginners.

Furthermore, it has large, luminescent gauges that are easy to read in any lighting condition so that you can quickly tell how much air is remaining in your scuba tank at all times. Additionally, its recessed instruments and rugged exterior ensures the gauge will last a long time against everything you throw at it..

Features:

• Color-coded indicators and fluorescent dial for use in low light conditions.
• Mounting points for lanyard or clips.
• Recessed instrument compartments reduce the chances of impact.
• MDI needle marks maximum depth during a dive.

XS Scuba Highland

• Depth Rating: N/A
• Max Pressure: 5,000 psi (350 bar)
• Materials: Tempered glass, nickel-plated brass, stainless steel
• Reading Options: Imperial / Metric

If you are diving in cramped environments like caves and wrecks, then you need an SPG that is compact and durable. The XS Scuba Highland fits that bill with its solid metal case, tempered scratch-resistant glass, and intuitive face that can be read at a glance.

This type of standalone SPG is ideal for challenging environments where there are entanglement hazards since it’s so streamlined and easy to stow. The integrated snap bolt is highly secure and will keep you from losing the SPG. Furthermore, it’s one of the most customizable SPGs on the market with 2” and 2.5” variations, as well as bar and psi measurements.

Features:

• Available in numerous sizes.
• Fluorescent needle and luminescent face for easy reading.
• Solid construction for added durability.

Cressi Mini SPG

• Depth Rating: 230 ft (70 m)
• Max Pressure: 5,000 psi (350 bar)
• Materials: Desmopen, glass, polycarbonate, chromed brass
• Reading Options: Imperial

The Cressi Mini SPG has an easy-to-read 5,000 psi pressure gauge and a depth gauge in one. This setup is great when used in combination with a dive computer. Even if you have a wireless air integrated setup, you may want to monitor the air manually with a backup gauge for added peace of mind.

Furthermore, the depth gauge comes with a maximum depth indicator and is easy to read. It will be more accurate than any digital version you’ll find in a dive computer. We love how compact and lightweight the Cressi Mini is. Thanks to its rubber boot, it’s durable on the outside and can be mounted onto your scuba equipment. Overall, this is a top pick not just for its performance, but for how convenient it is for traveling as well.

Features:

• Pressure and depth gauge.
• Travel-friendly and lightweight.
• Mounting points for lanyard or clips.
• Maximum depth indicator.

ScubaPro Pressure Gauge

• Depth Rating: 200 ft (60 m)
• Max Pressure: 5,000 psi (350 bar)
• Materials: Tempered glass, rubber, injection molded plastic, brass
• Reading Options: Imperial /Metric

The ScubaPro pressure gauge is one of the most straightforward models on the market, but sometimes simplicity is best. This SPG is a durable and rugged precision instrument that is designed for divers using multiple gauges in the water. The Scubapro SPG works well with staged and dropped decompression tanks, and can be used alongside a dive computer.

Additionally, this SPG’s luminescent face, fluorescent dial, and oversized printed numbers allow the information to be easily parsed even when in low-light conditions. Furthermore, it’s streamlined, lightweight, and can be stowed in a BCD pocket. If you are looking for a powerhouse of an SPG that can be used for nearly all diving conditions, then the Scubapro SPG is a great choice.

Features:

• Luminescent dial and fluorescent needle for easier reading in the dark.
• Compact and great for travel.
• Mounting points for lanyard or clips.

Tusa 3G Analog Console

• Depth Rating: 220 ft (70m)
• Max Pressure: 5,000 psi (350 bar)
• Materials: Injection molded plastic, rubber, tempered glass
• Reading Options: Imperial

If you want all your gauges in one, then the Tusa 3G features a unique space-saving design where it has a pressure and depth gauge in the front, and an analog compass in the back. This keeps the SPG relatively compact. At the front, oversized, easy-to-read printed numbers on the pressure and depth gauges can be easily parsed at a glance.

Next, the color-coded indicators let you know approximately how much air is remaining in the tank, or when you are approaching the maximum depth. The Tusa 3G features a maximum depth indicator to track the deepest point reached in a dive to help you plan your next immersion. Furthermore, this SPG’s impact-resistant, heavy-duty exterior makes it one of the most durable models on the market.

Features:

• 3 gauges – pressure, depth, and analog compass.
• Maximum depth indicator needle tracks maximum depth reached in a dive.
• Luminescent face for easier reading in the dark.

Suunto SPG

• Depth Rating: N/A
• Max Pressure: 5,000 psi (350 bar)
• Materials: Injection molded plastic, tempered glass
• Reading Options: Imperial

Even if you are already diving with a wireless air integrated dive computer or multiple gauges, you want to have a back-up pressure gauge for redundancy. This way, a dive can safely go on even if one instrument fails. The Suunto SPG is an excellent choice for a back-up gauge since it is compact, clips to your gear, or can be stowed in a BCD pocket.

To ensure it can be used even in dim lighting, the Suunto SPG has a luminescent dial and oversized printed numbers so that it can always be read. Furthermore, its basic design makes it impossible to mess up the readings. It even has color-coded indicators so you’ll know when your tank is in the red and it’s time to surface.

Features:

• Fluorescent needle and luminescent dial for easier reading in dim lighting.
• Color-coded indicators.
• Simplistic, compact design which is ideal for travel.
• Mounting points for clips or a lanyard.

Oceanic Swiv Combo

• Depth Rating: 200 ft (60 m)
• Max Pressure: 5,000 psi (350 bar)
• Materials: Noryl, lexan, rubber, injection molded plastic
• Reading Options: Imperial

While the Oceanic Swiv might not be the most stylish SPG with its unique design, it more than makes up for it with its usefulness and durability. This SPG uses an injection molded plastic boot and scratch-resistant Lexan and Noryl gauge faces for an ultra durable exterior. The Swiv is suited for divers that will be diving in tough water conditions.

Carrying it around is convenient with its twin mounting points so that it can be clipped on anywhere, even if you are using oversized hardware for colder climates. You can also appreciate its luminescent gauge faces and thermometer gauge if you are diving in dark and chilly waters. Overall, the Oceanic Swiv Combo is a hard-wearing SPG that is suitable for everyday use.

Features:

• Integrated temperature gauge which reads from 0 to 100F.
• Shock-resistant bourdon tube mechanism.
• One-way safety valve.
• Nitrox compatible to 50% O2.

Best Scuba Pressure Gauge Buying Guide

It can be headache-inducing shopping for a SPG; there are so many options on the market, and you may not know where to start. It doesn’t help that some SPGs do so much more than provide pressure data; they may also come with a depth gauge, compass, thermometer, and more.

Minimum Specs

No matter which dive gauge you get, it should at the very least have the following features. To begin, it should be color-coded. Green means full, yellow means partially used up, and red means running low on air. An SPG may have only one or all of these colors; as long as it’s easy to see that you are running low on air, it’s good enough.

Next, the dial or needle should be fluorescent so that you can still read the SPG under dim conditions. Of course, it also helps if you have a good dive torch to illuminate your surroundings.

Finally, the SPG’s dial should also be luminescent. This basically means that it can glow in the dark. Particularly if you do a lot of night or wreck diving where light is limited, being able to still read your gauges is a necessity. This also means that you can charge up the luminescent material on your SPG by shining your dive light at it.

Units

SPGs will display imperial or metric units depending on your location. Locations influenced by the US will use imperial units (psi), and European instruments will use the metric system (bars). These are both valid units and it doesn’t matter which one you get as long as you know how to easily read them.

Ideally, you should know how to read both systems well enough that you can do quick mental math to calculate how much air you have left. You never know when you might need it, and it’s better to be safe than sorry.

Stripped Down or Booted

SPGs either come stripped down or booted. “Stripped down” means the SPG is standalone, i.e., it doesn’t have extra protective material. This saves space and creates less drag when underwater which is ideal for technical diving. Console SPGs are “booted” when they are covered in rubber or plastic. A booted SPG is more durable because it is protected by extra material, whereas stripped down SPGs are exposed and vulnerable to hard objects during transport.

Standalone or Console

The most popular SPG setup is the console type. For the most part, consoles have 2 displays: an SPG that is connected to a high pressure hose, and a depth gauge. Sometimes in high-end models there are 3 displays where an underwater compass is included. For technical diving, SPGs are used as a back-up to air integrated dive computers in case something goes wrong with the device.

Configuration

Divers tend to customize their equipment to achieve the perfect trim, balance, and comfort while underwater. This is easily done on other equipment like weight belts, regulators, BCDs, and dive computers. However, when it comes to a precision measuring instrument like an SPG, do NOT attempt to configure it yourself (except for swivel and lanyard attachment). You do not want to mess up its high-pressure air readings. If you suspect your SPG needs to be calibrated, then it is better to send it off to an accredited service center or dive shop.

Frequently Asked Questions

What does SPG stand for?

SPG stands for submersible pressure gauge. Some people might call it a scuba pressure gauge, but it basically means the same thing. SPGs not only track the air pressure in your scuba tank; they also track the current depth. The gauge is really two gauges in one, and sometimes there might even be a compass as well. SPGs provide you data regarding the remaining air supply and current depth using needles that point to numbers on the respective gauge.

What is the gauge pressure?

Since your scuba tank is packed with compress air, monitoring the pressure in the tank can give you an accurate ideal of how much air is remaining. The gauge pressure is the measurement of the remaining air in BAR/PSI units. With this knowledge, scuba divers can make smarter decisions regarding how much longer they can keep diving, or if they should start their ascent to the surface.

How do I use an SPG?

Keep in mind that a full scuba tank has 3,000 psi (207 bar) of compressed air. As you dive, keep an eye out on how much psi/bar is remaining. Once it reaches approximately 20-25%, you should begin your ascent. In other words, if your pressure reading is around 700 psi (50 bar) or less, it’s about time to wrap up your dive.

Without an SPG, you cannot know exactly how much pressure is left. SPGs are a precision instrument reading that gives you the precise data. You should be monitoring your SPG every few minutes. This way, you will not find yourself in the worst case scenario where you are out of air while hundreds of feet underwater. During your pre-dive check, make absolutely certain that your SPG is functioning properly.

Do I need an SPG to safely dive?

Yes, SPGs are an essential piece of scuba equipment you should always bring with you. Knowing precisely how much air is remaining in the tank can prevent a serious accident from occurring. Using something like a dive watch or a dive computer to estimate the air remaining in the tank isn’t accurate. They don’t actually track the pressure inside and are monitoring secondary factors like elapsed time or heart rate.

With an SPG, you can get accurate readings of the air pressure in the scuba tank in real-time. This is necessary because your oxygen supply is not used up at a uniform rate; you consume air differently from dive to dive. For example, a sudden and unexpected increase in physical exertion will cause you to use up oxygen rapidly. Other tracking methods may not take into account these spikes in oxygen consumption, but an SPG will always give you the most accurate data. You can even link the SPG to an air integrated dive computer to read this data from a digital screen.

Whether you’re snorkeling, surfing, paddleboarding, or diving, if the conditions are cold and wet then you will need to wear a wetsuit to keep you warm. If you plan on heading into the water for a second session later in the day, then you need to find a way to dry your wetsuit in just a few short hours. To do this, you will need a wetsuit hanger and/or a wetsuit drying rack.

A good wetsuit drying rack should be able to support the weight of your damp wetsuit and leave as much surface area exposed to air to facilitate faster drying. It should also ideally not crease or leave permanent marks on the neoprene material of your suit. You may want a portable one to take with you for travel, or perhaps a larger one for personal use at home. We cover all of these options and more in this review, so keep reading to learn more.

Malo’o Portable Drying Rack – Best for Travel

If you are traveling or planning on spending the entire day outside, then you need a portable drying rack to bring with you. In that case, the Malo’o wetsuit drying rack is a durable and versatile option for drying your wetsuit while on the move.

It works by hanging from the side-view mirror (or any other suitable place) of your vehicle which is very convenient; you don’t need to worry about where or whether you are capable of setting up the rack as long as you have your vehicle with you. You can also hang it from car roof racks, garage roofs, thick tree branches, and so on.

Additionally, the Malo’o rack has padding around its top handle and hinges so that it won’t scratch or damage your car in any way. The padding is durable and should survive the lifetime of the rack itself.

Furthermore, the Malo’o portable drying rack can be folded up easily and quickly in order to save space in storage. Lack of space is a major issue since you are bringing along so much other gear with you, so its collapsibility is a huge help.

As for how it can efficiently dry you wetsuit, its hanging rails are thick and provide sufficient air circulation to facilitate quick drying of your gear. The bars are corrosion-resistant and its thickness means it won’t leave crease marks or damage the wetsuit as it dries. You can hang just about anything you need from it: wetsuits, drysuits, fishing gear, jackets, a snowboard, and many more.

The only downside to this kind of wetsuit is that if you aren’t able to rinse off the saltwater from your wetsuit, then it can drip onto the surface of your car and discolor the bodywork of your car over time. This would have to happen for a long time for you to notice, and chances are you are rinsing your wetsuit after each session anyways, but it’s something you should know about.

Overall, the Malo’o portable drying rack is a convenient and affordable option that allows you to bring a highly portable rack to dry your wetsuit no matter where you are. It was originally a Kickstarter project that met its backing goal and is now a tried-and-true product. The fact that so many people felt the need to donate shows there was truly a need for a product like this, and its benefits are very enticing.

Best Indoor Wetsuit Drying Racks

We found that an affordable and effective way to dry our wetsuits indoors is to get a large enough clothes drying rack and simply draping the wetsuit over it. This way, you don’t even need a hanger and it leaves plenty of surface area exposed to the air with no creasing.

There are many benefits this provides:

• It’s affordable.
• You can easily assemble it.
• Some are collapsible so you can fit it in the trunk of your car.
• Easy to replace if you need to.
• You can use it for laundry as well.

Since your wetsuit will be dripping wet, you should set up the laundry rack in the bathtub where the water can safely drain away without staining or damaging the floor or carpet. We leave the wetsuits like this overnight and then turn the wetsuit over in the morning.

If for some reason you have to set up the rack outside of the bath, you can simply put a bucket under the laundry rack and place the arms/legs of your wetsuit in the bucket so that all the water will eventually drip there instead of on the floor.

The downside to using this kind of drying rack for your wetsuit is that it is made of metal, meaning it will eventually rust. Your mileage may vary; we have used a drying rack for years and there is only a small amount of rust. Even if we had to replace it soon, we more than got our money’s worth at this point.

The products below are examples of the kind of drying racks that you can set up at home to dry your wetsuit. Recommending a specific product can be a little tricky depending on the size of your bathroom. If you only have a walk-in shower or don’t have a lot of floor space, look for a laundry rack that is taller rather than wider. With that said, a taller drying rack is likely to fall over when outside in windy weather, so it’s best to leave it indoors.

BONBON 3 Tier Clothes Drying Rack

This 3-tier drying rack with 2-side wings provides ample space for you to dry your wetsuits and other gear. This is best to set up in a bathtub because of the large amount of space it occupies.

Honey-Can-Do Drying Rack

This foldable drying rack comes with either 2-tiers or 3-tiers so you can dry multiple wetsuits at the same time. It uses a durable steel construction and is coated with a rust-resistant silver finish. The top shelf has a removable mesh top that is ideal for adding stability to any flat drying items. It can be folded down to 2.5” flat for easy storage or to take with you while traveling. You can set this unit up anywhere, including the balcony, kitchen, bathroom, or laundry room. It’s tall, so it’s great for those with limited floor space or a walk-in shower.

DIY Wetsuit Hanger Racks

Quite a few people have had success making their own wetsuit rack using PVC pipes and connectors. This sounds like a fantastic option if you want to go the DIY route. It can literally be as simple as using a single PVC pipe, drilling holes at each end, and then threading some wire through it to make the hook.

Or, you can make a more complicated setup with a fan that blows warm air to speed up the drying process as seen in the video below. Here, you can see a neat garage setup and some human ingenuity to make a simple yet effective DIY drying rack.

Outdoors Wetsuit Drying Racks

The best options for an outdoor drying rack is either the Malo’o portable drying rack which we reviewed above, some kind of PVC piping setup, or else a metal laundry frame that you can set up under an awning. PVC pipes will not rust so they are a versatile wetsuit rack if you have the DIY skills to make a drying rack setup yourself.

Since the Malo’o drying rack now exists, you don’t have to go the DIY route if you’re willing to spend $30-40 for a professional quality product that you can rely on.

You could also try using a wooden frame as your outdoor wetsuit rack. There are many disadvantages to this, however. It can get waterlogged or moldy after a few months of outdoor use. Furthermore, the wood can splinter and poke holes in your wetsuit and fingers. The option exists, but there are better solutions available.

How to Dry Your Wetsuit Quickly

Before even hanging your wetsuit on a drying rack to dry, there are some steps you should follow to speed up the drying process. We are assuming that you’ve already rinsed your suit with freshwater and your suit is still dripping wet.

The first and most obvious step is to use a dry towel to absorb as much of the excess water as possible. Wrap your wetsuit up in a large towel or two and then squeeze the water out by stepping on it. You can use your hands if you want, but using your bodyweight is an effortless process.

Next, make sure the drying rack is set up in a well-ventilated location away from direct sunlight. The sun’s UV rays can deteriorate both your wetsuit and the drying rack itself, so try to keep it in a shaded area. If you have a fan, use it to blow at the wetsuit. Make sure nearby windows are open so there is airflow.

When drying your wetsuit, you should turn it inside out to ensure that the inside dries first. This is because it’s much more comfortable and convenient to put it on if at least the insides are dry. Ideally you have enough time between sessions to completely dry your wetsuit, but if you don’t, then try to dry the insides first.

If you are attentive, then every 20 minutes or so you can squeeze the ends of the wetsuit where water has pooled up and is dripping from. This is usually the ankle and wrist area of the suit. Be gentle when squeezing so that you do not damage the neoprene.

Why Do I Have to Dry My Wetsuit?

You might be thinking it’s acceptable if the wetsuit is a little damp between sessions. There are many issues if your wetsuit is not fully dry. First, it’s simply unpleasant. When you have to wake up early in the cold morning and you put on a damp wetsuit, it’s not a fun experience that you want to repeat.

Second, a damp wetsuit is harder to put on. With a dry wetsuit, your hands and feet will slide through easily. Moisture increases friction and makes it much harder to slip your hands and feet through. You can experience this phenomenon if your body is wet and sweaty and you try to put on a dry wetsuit. Ideally, both you and your wetsuit are dry to make donning the suit a quick and painless process.

Lastly, there’s also the issue of mold and bacteria growth. If your wetsuit is always damp, it’s going to be a haven for these harmful organisms. You should always endeavor to dry your wetsuit as quickly as possible after each session.

We all love how our wetsuits protect us from the cold, the sun’s harsh UV rays, and the occasional bruise or cut from hitting a rock. But hopefully you are showing your wetsuit a more tangible kind of love by properly taking care of it after a dive. As in, you need to thoroughly rinse the wetsuit with freshwater and then hang it out to dry; two simple tasks that many people get wrong. With the best wetsuit drying hanger, you can do this process quickly and easily.

In this article, we review the best wetsuit drying hangers that will help you dry your wetsuit in a matter of minutes. It will require some work on your part, but all in all it’s a relatively straightforward process. In addition to the review, we have written a guide and FAQ detailing how you can quickly dry your wetsuit. Without further ado, let’s get into it.

Our Top Picks:

Best Wetsuit Drying Hangers Recommendations

The best wetsuit drying hanger will be thick and wide so that it doesn’t stretch out or leave permanent marks on the shoulders or midsection of your wetsuit. All of the hangers below meet this very important criteria.

Ho Stevie! Wetsuit Hanger

The Ho Stevie! wetsuit hanger comes equipped with wide, vented shoulder pads that supports the sides of the wetsuit and increases air circulation. The shoulder extensions also preserve your wetsuit’s life by not stretching out the neoprene material.

Thanks to its heavy-duty polymer, the Ho Stevie! wetsuit can be used to hang any kind of wetsuit or drysuit. It is highly durable and can easily support even the thickest wetsuits without issue. Furthermore, this wetsuit hanger is foldable for convenient packing. This also allows it to fit through the neck opening of the wetsuit without stretching it, where you can then extend it to its full length afterward.

Niiwi Foldable Wetsuit Hanger

Next, the Niiwi foldable wetsuit hanger is yet another hanger with wide shoulder pads to prevent damage to the wetsuit when hanging it. (This is a common aspect of all wetsuit hangers, so be prepared for some repetition). The Niiwi hanger is compatible with all kinds of diving suits, be it a wetsuit or a drysuit.

To enhance its strength and durability, the Niiwi hanger is made using non-corrosive EP plastic. It is foldable which makes it easy for storage and travel. You can easily fit it through the neck of the suit without stretching the neoprene out. Furthermore, the Niiwi hanger can swivel a full 360° for more convenient hanging.

YUENA CARE Wetsuit Hanger

The YUENA CARE wetsuit hanger is constructed using high-quality plastic that is not only tough and lightweight, but also rustproof. It has a width of 51cm (20”) which is a standard size that should be compatible with most diving suits. The YUENA CARE hanger can be folded up with the press of a single button so that it can be inserted into the neck of the wetsuit without stretching it. This also makes it easier to pack into backpacks or luggage.

Looking closely at the hanger, you’ll notice it has perforations which increases airflow to facilitate faster drying of your wetsuit when hanging it on the rack. The extension arms are wide enough to prevent damaging the shoulders of the suit, and the hook spins a full 360°. Overall, a very solid hanger that you can’t go wrong with.

Underwater Kinetics HangAir Hanger w/ Built-in Fan

The Underwater Kinetics HangAir has an innovative design which combines a traditional hanger with a built-in fan. The idea is that its waterproof fan will quickly dry the suit and stop the developmental of odors and bacteria. It can be used for not just wetsuits, but rainsuits and other protective gear.

Additionally, the fan can push 120 cubic feet of air per minute, and power is supplied from a 100/240 VAC universal wall-mounted adapter. This product is very effective when it works, however some users claim that the quality control can be a bit unreliable. This is the reason why we aren’t recommending it as our first choice, however it is incredibly effective if it can consistently work.

Hang Pro Wetsuit Hanger

The Hang Pro slide wetsuit hanger has a unique design that makes hanging easy. Simply drape the wetsuit over the I-beam bar instead of hanging it from the neck/shoulder area. This is designed to eliminate shoulder wear which other hanger designs might cause. It is a great choice for long-term storage to keep the wetsuit’s shoulders from stretching. If you want your wetsuit to avoid significant fabric stress, consider draping your wetsuit over a Hang Pro slide wetsuit hanger.

XS Scuba Travel Wetsuit Hanger

The XS Scuba Travel wetsuit hanger is the perfect foldable wetsuit hanger designed for travel. It can hold over 20 pounds of weight and is extremely durable. What makes this product stand out is its extra hooks that extend out from the sides which can be used to hang scuba gloves as well. This is yet another solid hanger to consider.

Storm Scuba Wetsuit Hanger

The Storm Scuba wetsuit hanger is a very basic product with a one piece construction that is essentially just a sturdy hanger. It’s made of a durable plastic resin that is corrosion-resistant and supports up to 20 lbs (9.1 kg). This hanger does not fold up so be careful not to stretch the wetsuit when fitting it through the neck opening. This product is just a cheap, generic wetsuit hanger but it gets the job done if you are on a budget.

How to Dry a Wetsuit

If you are not sure of how to take care of your wetsuit without damaging it, you have to first keep in mind that the neoprene material it’s made of is different from common cloth material such as cotton. Whatever you do, do NOT leave it out in direct sunlight or put it in a clothes dryer.

After you finish your swim, surf, snorkel, or dive session, please do the following:

1. Rinse the Suit

You must always rinse your wetsuit with freshwater after using it to get rid of salt and other ocean particulates. If you feel that it’s really dirty, then give it a thorough wash using wetsuit cleaner or a mild soap. Make sure to wash both inside and outside, and to reach into all the nooks and crannies. Once you’re done rinsing or washing it, turn the wetsuit inside out and now it’s time to move on to step 2.

2. Hang the Suit

Use a wetsuit drying hanger to hang the suit. The reason why you should specifically use wetsuit hangers is because they are extremely thick and will not dig into the wetsuit’s neoprene material which could leave permanent marks. They are also much more durable than regular hangers to be able to support the weight of a wetsuit that’s still dripping wet.

Where should you hang your wetsuit? Ideally, you should hang it outdoors in a shaded area, making sure to avoid direct sunlight. Even though the suit can protect you from UV rays, leaving it exposed to the rays for a significant period of time will cause it to deteriorate rapidly. If possible, leave it underneath some awnings where it is exposed to fresh air but still kept away from the sun.

If you cannot leave it outdoors, then another option is to hang it in your bathtub. Make sure to crack open the window and leave the door so that there is proper ventilation. Leaving it indoors also protects it from being stolen, but it will not dry as quickly without much wind.

3. Squeeze out the water

After the suit has been hanging for about 10-20 minutes, you will notice water accumulating at the edges of the legs and arms of the suit. This is because the water has slid down from the upper parts to the lower parts, therefore the upper sections of the suit should be drying out nicely.

To speed up the drying process, squeeze out the pooled water from the legs and arms of the suit. You don’t have to do this, but if you need the suit dry ASAP, then perform the following steps.

For the arms, start squeezing it from the shoulder level all the way down to the wrists. Do NOT wring the suit, simply squeeze it by balling your hands up into a fist. For the legs, start from the thigh and work your way downwards. In general, start from the top and work your way down. Gravity will cause the water to travel downwards, so most of the water will naturally be at the bottom. Repeat this process every 20 minutes for as long as needed.

4. Let it dry

Once most of the water has been squeezed out but the suit is still moist, then most of the work on your part is done. Just be patient and let it dry. If your suit is made of neoprene, this process should only take an hour or two depending on ventilation. Another factor to consider is how thick your suit is; generally, thicker wetsuits take longer to dry than thinner ones.

If you want, you can also keep turning the suit inside out so that both the inside and outside can dry evenly. For thinner wetsuits, this may not make much of a difference. For thicker wetsuits, this can drastically speed up the drying process. If you follow the above steps, then your wetsuit should dry fast enough for a second session or for packing up to bring home.

Speeding Up the Drying Process

If you are in a rush and need your suits to dry ASAP, then try to do the following:

Dry it with a towel first

Before hanging the wetsuit up to dry, first wrap it up in a large towel and firmly squeeze it. The towel will suck up a lot of the excess water which should significantly speed up the drying time.

Hang the wetsuit in a windy/well-ventilated area

Fast-moving air increases how quickly water will evaporate from the wetsuit, and the result is a faster drying process. If you’re drying the wetsuit indoors, open up the window(s) and leave the door(s) open. If you have a fan, blow it directly at the wetsuit to increase air flow. When drying the suit outdoors, keep it away from the sunlight. Pray that it is a windy day, because mother nature’s fan is more effective than any man-made fan.

Squeeze the suit occasionally

As we mentioned above, this step is optional but beneficial. Every few minutes, squeeze the water out of the arms and legs that have pooled up. Take care not to damage the neoprene material when squeezing, whatever you do, do NOT twist it. Stretching the neoprene material will degrade its lifespan and possibly cause it to tear it if you are too rough.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I put the wetsuit into a dryer?

No. The heat from the dryer will damage the neoprene, effectively ruining it. If you read the care guide that comes with the suit, it will most likely tell you that putting the wetsuit in the dryer will void the warranty. Honestly, wetsuits dry quickly if you follow the steps outlined in this article, so just do that instead.

How long does it take for a wetsuit to dry?

The answer to this question depends on the material and thickness of the suit, as well as how involved you want to be and the environment that it is drying in. Under idyllic conditions where it is drying outdoors on a warm but breezy day and you are actively involved in the process, it can be as quick as two to three hours. Drying the wetsuit indoors will take a bit longer, unless the room is well-ventilated. On the extreme end, if you are trying to dry a wetsuit in the colder months such as winter, it could take the whole day or longer.

How do I leave a wetsuit to dry overnight?

For a hands-off approach, the best way to leave a wetsuit to dry overnight is to hang it in the bathroom. Leave the window and door open so it gets some fresh air. If you live in a safe area, you could leave it to dry on the balcony. Just make sure to take it indoors once the sun rises and starts to shine on it. You can also leave it out to dry in any room of your home by leaving a bucket underneath to catch the dripping water. If you have a ceiling fan or a portable fan, then you can drastically decrease the time it takes to dry.

Don’t underestimate how much heat loss occurs from your hands. Not wearing dive gloves while scuba diving or spearfishing is a big mistake that will decrease your bottom time. You may be hesitant about getting dive gloves because they will make you less dexterous. While true, the advantages they offer far outweigh any downsides.

No matter the temperature of the water you are diving in, you should wear dive gloves to insulate your hands and protect it from scratches. Especially for cold water diving, you will lose sensation in your hands in 10 minutes and run the risk of getting hypothermia. For wreck diving and spearfishing, the best dive gloves will protect you from sharp edges and provide extra grip.

With hundreds of models and dozens of brands on the market, finding the best dive gloves for you can be a daunting task. How thick should the gloves be? What materials and design should it have? What’s a good price? We answer all of these questions and more in this review and buying guide. Check out our recommendations below and peruse the buying guide to help you select the one that best suits your needs.

Our Top Picks:

Best Scuba Diving Gloves Recommendations

Cressi 2.5mm Neoprene Stretch Gloves

Cressi is a top manufacturer of scuba gear, and their 2.5mm neoprene stretch gloves are nothing to scoff at. They come in three thicknesses from 2.5mm to 5.0mm, and they are covered in a non-slip grip finish for extra grip and protection. The 2.5mm is ideal for warm water activities such as snorkeling and recreational diving. The materials used are stretchy, and the pre-formed shape provides additional dexterity underwater. Water is kept out and your hands kept warm thanks to the solid-wrist design. You can’t go wrong with a pair of Cressi gloves.

• Material: Neoprene
• Thickness: 2.5mm / 3.5mm / 5.0mm
• Suitable for: Warm and temperate water diving

Notable Features:

• Non-slip grip surface.
• Three thickness options for various water temperatures.
• Soft Metallite lining for smooth donning and doffing.
• Pre-formed shape and stretchy neoprene.

ScubaPro Everflex 3mm Diving Gloves

The ScubaPro Everflex is easy to don and doff thanks to its flexibility despite not using a Velcro wrist or zipper. It offers great abrasion resistance with its reinforced fingers and palms that also provide superior grip. Built with comfort in mind, the Everflex uses stretchy neoprene that seals tightly and dries quickly. To prevent water intrusion, the Everflex uses blind-stitch construction for extra durability. This is a solid option for diving in mild to warm waters.

• Material: Neoprene
• Thickness: 3mm
• Suitable for: Warm to temperate water diving

Notable Features:

• Can be used for recreational or technical diving.
• Ideal for travel.
• Assembled with solvent-free glue.
• Single wrist seal insulates while minimizing water intrusion.

Neo-Sport Premium Neoprene Dive Gloves

If you want an all-around, reliable pair of gloves that can be used for diving, watersports, or general maintenance, then this five-finger wetsuit gloves from Neo-Sport is a solid option. These gloves come in 3mm and 5mm versions, and are designed to not only insulate, but also protect your hands in harsh environments. The velcro-elastic strap fastens the glove around your wetsuit to keep water out, but can also easily be removed when needed. This is a highly versatile glove that provides excellent bang-for-the-buck.

• Material: Neoprene
• Thickness: 3mm / 5mm
• Suitable for: Warm to temperate water diving, all water sports, gutter cleaning, pond and aquarium maintenance.

Notable Features:

• Sewn and glued seams offer extra waterproofing integrity.
• Extra-grip textured palm.
• Highly versatile, can be used for all-purposes.
• Unbeatable quality for the price.

Seavenger Abyss 1.5mm Dive Gloves

The Seavenger Abyss dive gloves are durable and lightweight, making them the optimal choice for warm water scuba diving and spearfishing. It is designed to maintain the wearer’s dexterity so that they can perform the precise movements needed for smooth diving and spearfishing. The shape will conform perfectly to your hands and provide much-needed protection while underwater. The velcro straps keep the gloves secured and water from seeping in. You can get the Seavenger Abyss in five colors and numerous sizes ranging from 2XS to 2XL so there’s a size for everyone.

• Material: Neoprene
• Thickness: 1.5mm
• Suitable for: Warm water diving and spearfishing

Notable Features:

• Reinforced with durable Amara leather.
• 5 color options and sizes from 2XS to 2XL.
• Ergonomic shape designed to fit the natural curvature of the hand.

Promate 3mm Kevlar Dive Gloves

The Promate 3mm kevlar dive gloves are the optimal choice for technical and commercial divers that will be handling rough and coarse objects. They have been reinforced with flexible and durable kevlar over the palm and fingers. These gloves have been pre-curved so that they can fit snug right off the bat. The velcro closure makes donning and doffing a breeze. Protect your hands from both the cold and underwater hazards with the Promate kevlar dive gloves.

• Material: Neoprene, kevlar
• Thickness: 3mm
• Suitable for: Warm to moderate water diving

Notable Features:

• Scratch and cut-resistant kevlar material on the finger and palm area.
• Flexible yet durable construction.
• Ideal for technical or commercial divers.
• Velcro wrist strap.

Mares Flexa Fit 5mm Dive Gloves

With its double-blind stitched and triple glued seams, the Mares Flexa Fit is built to last. These gloves are designed for harsh cold water conditions, and the ultra-stretch material provides comfort while making them easy to put on and take off. The rubber printed palm protects your hands from scratches and abrasions while providing additional grip.

What makes the Mares Flexa stand out is its pre-formed wrist shape and innovative cut. This ensures that there is a watertight seal that keeps your hands warm and dry.

• Material: Nylon, Neoprene rubber
• Thickness: 5mm
• Suitable for: Temperate and cold water diving

Notable Features:

• Pre-bent finger shape and innovative cut.
• Double-blind stitched and triple glued seams.
• Rubber printed palm increases grip.
• Ultra-stretchy material.

AquaLung 5mm Thermocline Kevlar Dive Gloves

For those planning on cold water diving, you need a thick and reliable pair of gloves. The AquaLung 5mm thermocline kevlar gloves fit that bill with its thick neoprene material. Furthermore, the 5” zipper design makes donning and doffing extremely straightforward. The zipper was designed to limit corrosion from exposure to saltwater.

Thanks to its pre-curved fingers, these gloves have been ergonomically designed to fit snugly on your hands out of the box to maintain dexterity and minimize fatigue. To minimize water intrusion, the seams have been blind-stitched and glued. The AquaLung 5mm gloves have been reinforced with ballistic strength synthetic fiber on the palm, fingertips, and even back of the gloves for superior abrasion resistance and enhanced grip. If you need a heavy-duty pair of gloves, then this a solid choice.

• Material: Neoprene
• Thickness: 5mm
• Suitable for: Temperate and cold water diving.

Notable Features:

• Large 5” zipper leaves a wide opening for easier donning and doffing.
• 2mm neoprene gusset blind-stitched and glued for minimal water exchange.
• YKK zipper is corrosion-resistant.
• Silicone printed palm provides extra grip.

D-Vein Lobster Gloves for Diving and Spearfishing

Though these gloves were designed with lobstering in mind, they are capable of so much more. You can use it for basically any water sports activity you want, including diving, spearfishing, snorkeling, and so on. Because of its lightweight design and flexibility, it is highly versatile.

Furthermore, the D-Vein gloves are made of kevlar with a non-slip grip on the palms as well as a rubber coating on the back side for added protection. This pair of gloves manages to combine resilience with flexibility, so you don’t have to worry about your catch of the day cutting you or wiggling away from your hands.

As soon as you try on the D-Vein gloves, you will understand how pliable and soft these gloves are on the inside. It allows you to easily manipulate your fingers with almost no loss of dexterity, unlike many bulky, awkward gloves on the market. Taking care of the D-vein gloves is very straightforward. You can just throw it in the washing machine and leave them out to air dry overnight. These gloves are so convenient, versatile, and available at an affordable price.

• Material: Kevlar
• Thickness: 1.5mm
• Suitable for: Warm water diving, snorkeling, spearfishing

Notable Features:

• Perfect for all water sports and activities.
• Flexible fingers with a firm non-slip grip.
• Washing machine friendly.
• Backside is coated in rubber armor for extra protection.

ScubaPro Tropic 1.5mm Dive Gloves

Next we have a popular warm water diving glove by ScubaPro; the Tropic 1.5mm dive gloves are as durable as they are lightweight. Made from Neoprene X-foam, this glove is petroleum-free and made with responsible materials that protects divers and the oceans. Another advantage of this neoprene is that it provides added comfort and warmth.

In order to protect against infection-prone cuts, the Tropic is reinforced with an Amara palm and fingertips that are often caused by grasping barnacle-encrusted ladders or edges in tropical waters. These gloves come in a variety of aesthetic patterns and colors that will be sure to catch the eye.

• Material: Amara fabric, limestone neoprene
• Thickness: 1.5mm
• Suitable for: Warm water diving

Notable Features:

• Amara fabric palm that is resistant to punctures and is soft when dry.
• Reinforced palm and fingertips for added durability and a non-slip grip.
• Velcro wrist seal for a snug fit.

XS Scuba 5mm Dry Five Pyrostretch Gloves

The XS Scuba 5mm Pyrostretch gloves are a pair of true dry gloves designed for cold water diving. To ensure no water seeps in, the seams have been blind-stitched, glued, and liquid-taped so that they are extra durable. Your hands will not only stay warm, but completely dry during the dive.

Furthermore, the Pyrostretch neoprene is very flexible so it won’t hinder dexterity too much while worn. The solid wrist design forms a tight seal to decrease the chances of water entering the gloves. Lastly, the palm is textured to provide a non-slip grip and add an extra bit of protection for your palm.

• Material: Pyrostretch neoprene
• Thickness: 5mm
• Suitable for: Temperate and cold water diving.

Notable Features:

• True dry gloves designed for cold water diving.
• Highly stretchable neoprene material provides a custom-like fit.
• Seams have been blind-stitched, glued, and liquid-taped.
• Twin-cuff design keeps water from entering through the wrist area.

Dive Gloves for Scuba and Spearfishing Buying Guide

Gloves may not be a high priority for you if you are a warm water diving. If you’re a cold water diver, then gloves are one of the most important items to prevent heat loss from your extremities. So don’t haphazardly purchase this essential diving accessory because it can make a big difference when you are out on a dive. In this section, we will go over the major factors to consider when shopping for a pair of dive gloves.

If you learn nothing else from this article, then at least know that the four most important considerations for dive gloves are:

• Do they insulate your hands?
• Are they comfortable?
• Can you still perform the necessary actions with a glove on?
• Are the gloves durable enough for your diving style?

Now, let’s get into the nitty-gritty.

Materials

Do you like to dive with bare hands so that you can feel your equipment and have greater dexterity? Under 12°C you will lose sensation in your hands after 10 minutes, so why bother? Keep your hands warm while improving the suit’s seal on your wrist by wearing dive gloves. Gloves provide another advantage, which is that they offer a layer of protection to grab onto something if you are caught in a strong current.

The materials the dive glove is made from each have their pros and cons. You will have to find a good compromise between freedom of movement, thermal protection, and comfort. Dive gloves have thicknesses between 1-7mm thick and they should fit you like a second-skin. Even if the gloves feel tight on land, you won’t notice anything underwater since the neoprene will compress under pressure.

There are basically two types of materials to consider when looking for a pair of dive gloves.

Neoprene Diving Gloves

For the most insulation, use neoprene gloves.

They can be found in a thickness of 0.5-7mm, and neoprene gloves provide plenty of versatility. For example, you can find neoprene gloves reinforced with Amara or spratex, both of which improve sturdiness and grip on the palm as well as between the fingers. How sturdy they are depends on how thick they are. Neoprene gloves are optimal for diving and snorkeling, and the thickest ones are pre-shaped for superior grip and easier donning.

Textile Diving Gloves

The key features of textile diving gloves are their sturdiness and how easy they are to don.

Textile gloves are a great choice for protecting your hands when spearfishing, and they can also be used for scuba diving. They are often made of 1-2mm thick fabric. Some have an “Amara” textile on the fingers and palm to provide a better sense of touch. Others are coated with latex on the palm to resist wear and tear and cuts.

This type of glove does not provide the greatest thermal protection, however it compensates by offering unparalleled freedom of movement and a greater sense of touch. It can be used for diving at temperatures down to 15°C.

Warmth

One important distinction to keep in mind is that the vast majority of dive gloves are designed to keep your hands warm, but NOT dry. In fact, the way they do so is by trapping the water that enters and insulating the heat your body generates to warm the water within your gloves. Don’t be alarmed when you get to the surface and a flood of trapped water finally exits your gloves.

Most dive gloves are made of neoprene. Your wetsuit and dive hood are probably made of it as well. Neoprene is measured in millimetres, and the thicker it is the more warmth it will provide. If you dive exclusively in warm water and you just want some protection against the elements, then a thin pair of dive gloves are sufficient for your needs. Anything more than that and you may need a thick pair of neoprene gloves to keep you warm.

Fasteners

The sealing system affects how much insulation the gloves can provide. There are several types of fasteners, and each one provides different sealing qualities. The type of fastener that your gloves have will affect how much water enters as well as how easy it is to don and doff.

The most common type of fastener is the zip fastener. Most zips have a large puller to help you operate the zipper on the other glove once you have the first glove on.

Next, velcro straps are another type of fastener that makes donning and doffing very straightforward as well.

However, the most popular type of fastening system is simply a long, flexible wrist with no velcro or zipper. The glove’s flexibility provides a kind of seal around the wrist as you twist and turn it. The downside of this design is that it will lose flexibility over time, but it works well enough for the most part. This option is the most affordable which contributes to its popularity.

Gloves vs. Mitts

Another consideration to keep in mind is the difference between gloves and mitts. The more skin-to-skin contact you have, the warmer you’ll feel. Since gloves do not allow your fingers to have direct contact with each other, they are less warm than mitts.

That is the reason why five fingered gloves are not as warm as 3-fingered mitts, which are not as warm as mitts. Mitts have a thumb sleeve and a larger sleeve for all of your fingers. In other words, gloves are not as warm as mitts, however the vast majority of divers wear five-fingered dive gloves.

Additional factors that can provide extra warmth are if the gloves provide a velcro strap around the wrist to provide a tighter seal and limit the amount of water transfer in and out of the gloves. Or if the gloves have supplemental materials (e.g. titanium), as well as the number of seams. The fewer seams there are, the less places for water to enter from.

To address this, some gloves offer a strapless fit that keeps you warmer. However, this makes it very difficult to put on, especially the second glove since you will lose dexterity after the first glove is on.

Water Temperature

You need to select the appropriate glove and thickness for the kind of water you will be diving in. Here is a good rule of thumb to follow:

• Warm Water (>25°C) – Use gloves with 0.5-2.0mm of neoprene.
• Temperate Water (16-24°C) – Use gloves with 2-5mm of neoprene.
• Cold Water (10-18°C) – Use gloves with 5-7mm of neoprene.

Finding the Perfect Fit

No matter how warm your gloves are, you won’t be wearing them for very long if they are uncomfortable. The entire time you are diving, you will be thinking about how much of a hindrance they are. If the gloves feel off when you are on land, then any issues will only be exacerbated once you are underwater.

For example, if your gloves are on the small side, then the seams will be stretched and worn out much faster than usual. Very quickly, you will notice that cold water is entering from these stressed seams. As your dive progresses, you will notice your hand get colder and colder, defeating the purpose of the gloves.

Conversely, if your gloves are too large, then the water will not get trapped between your hand and glove. If the water is not trapped, your body cannot heat it up, and you will have cold hands for the entire dive as well.

Dexterity

Divers have to manage many pieces of gear underwater. They must clear water from their masks, adjust various straps, manipulate their gauges, and adjust the air levels in their BCDs just to list a few.

How quickly and efficiently a diver can accomplish this depends on how much dexterity they have at depth with gloves on. Since five-fingered gloves let you move each finger independently, they offer the greatest amount of dexterity. They let you take advantage of each finger to grip or rotate, and are the easiest to write with on an underwater slate.

The next level of dexterity provided is with three-finger mitts. This is the middle-ground option which provides a good balance of dexterity and warmth. Just having the index finger and thumb uncovered lets divers adjust their gear easily, allows for simple manipulation, and even lets one write using their slate’s pencil. Hand-signaling also becomes possible, such as the basic “OK” sign.

Lastly, mitts provided the least amount of dexterity which can make it difficult or impossible to manipulate some of your gear. It also hinders communication because hand signals are out of the question. The upside is that you will be very warm, however the inability to write or signal with ease are some serious downsides.

Durability

As a material, neoprene is stretchy but does not provide much grip or strength. To address this, dive glove manufacturers have to supplement their neoprene gloves with strength-increasing materials, such as titanium or Kevlar, often on the palm side of their mitts or gloves.

By strengthening the palm area, the glove’s life-span is greatly extended. Sharp edges on gear and accidental contact with wrecks, debris, or other underwater hazards would otherwise tear holes in the palm and fingers of your glove.

These non-neoprene materials provide more than just extra durability; they also increase your dexterity by providing extra grip. Anyone who has struggled to manipulate their scuba gear or write with a pencil while underwater will appreciate any attempt to increase slip-resistance of their gloves.

Kevlar gloves are used frequently by divers that are diving to collect abalone, rock lobster (crays), or scallops.

What Kind of Diver Are You?

In order to determine which gloves are the best option for you, you need to ask yourself: what kind of activities do I plan on doing? If you are just a casual or recreational diver, then basic gloves will work. You don’t need to worry about having extra features, it just needs to keep your hands warm.

If you need a heavy-duty pair of gloves for underwater work, fish farm repairs, etc., then you need to look for some reinforced gloves. If you do a lot of night diving, wreck diving, cave diving, and other such activities where it is really easy for scratches to occur on your hands, then look for gloves that have been reinforced with Amara, latex, or other resistant materials.

Divers who need to use their hands to perform fine movements need thin gloves which provide greater freedom of movement and sensitivity. If you need to take photos in cold waters, then you need to find a pair of gloves that provide a good balance of dexterity and insulation without being too thick.

Brands and Budget

There are many reputable manufacturers that produce quality scuba diving gear. Just to name a few, you may have heard of Mares, Neosport, Cressi, Aqualung, and ScubaPro. Their gear is not only reliable, but they are also quite affordable for the most part. There are more expensive brands, however you don’t need to spend a small fortune to get decent gloves (unless you have very specific needs).

On the other extreme, you will find many models for less than $10 USD. These are generally low-quality knock-offs that aren’t effective nor long-lasting. You will find that they either don’t work as advertised or you will need to replace them frequently. Better to spend a bit more money upfront for a pair of scuba gloves from any of the brands listed above and have it last for years.

Maintenance

After you are finished with a dive, particularly if you were in saltwater, you must perform the necessary precautions to ensure they last a long time. Leaving salt in the gloves will degrade the gloves and irritate your hands on the next dive. All diving equipment needs proper maintenance, and the gloves are no exception!

Cleaning your gloves is very similar to how you would clean your other scuba equipment. Rinse them off with fresh water, making sure no dirt or salt remains. Rinse both the inside and outside of the gloves. You can use some mild soap, wetsuit wash, or shampoo to aid you.

After you are finished rinsing, hang the gloves upside down to dry in a well-ventilated area in the shade. Do NOT leave them in direct sunlight; the UV rays will degrade the material and make it brittle. Make sure the gloves are dry before storing. If you will be leaving it in storage for a long time, make extra sure that it is dry to prevent mold growth. Also do not put anything heavy on top of the gloves.

Closing Thoughts

Whether you are diving in warm, mild, or cold water, dive gloves can provide some benefits for you in the form of protection and insulation. If you are worried about losing dexterity in your fingers, there are thin gloves that are only 1-3mm thick, as well as 3-finger mitts that let you use your index finger and thumb. These designs make it easier to manipulate your scuba gear and perform hand signals while protecting you from the cold.

Diving is already an inherently risky activity, and you want to take as many necessary precautions to ensure each dive goes smoothly. To that end, you should be covering up your body as much as possible so that there aren’t any exposed or vulnerable areas that can get injured. If your hands get too cold or they get scratched up, then that marks the end of your dive.

By purchasing any of the gloves we recommended in the list above, or buying from reputable brands from Mares, ScubaPro, Aqualung, Cressi, etc., then you can be sure you are getting the best dive gloves on the market. Avoid buying cheap knock-offs just to save a buck; they will break easily and you will have to spend more money to replace it. Buy a good one to start with, take good care of it, and it will last for years.

Lastly, make sure that the gloves you purchase are thick enough for the water temperature you will be diving in, and that it can help you accomplish your tasks. Look for gloves that have been reinforced in the palm and finger area to provide extra grip and protection against sharp edges. Determine whether gloves or mitts are the better option, and find one that fits your price range.

By following the advice provided in this article, you will be sure to find the best dive gloves for scuba diving and spearfishing at an affordable price. Then you will be well on your way to a longer bottom time and overall better scuba or spearfishing experience.B

As much as 60% of a diver’s body heat is lost through their head. If you plan on spending a lot of time in the water, it is recommended that you wear a dive hood. It doesn’t matter if you are doing warm or cold water diving, a dive hood provides numerous benefits.

Why do you need a scuba diving hood? Considering that the body loses heat 20 times faster in the water compared to air, insulating your head can help you retain a substantial amount of heat and reduce fatigue (your body doesn’t need to work so hard to replace lost heat). Overall, this increases your bottom time and makes scuba diving much more enjoyable.

In this article, we will be reviewing the best scuba diving hoods that will help keep your head warm on a dive. We will also provide a buying guide so you can do some research on your own, as well as answer commonly asked questions in the FAQ. Let’s get started.

Our Top Picks:

Best Scuba Diving Hoods – Recommendations

Neo Sport Multi-Density Wetsuit Hood

The Neo Sport scuba hood uses extra soft, form-fitting, stretch neoprene to provide a snug and comfortable fit. Its custom-trim face seal and durable stitched seams work together to keep water from seeping in while the neoprene lets air pass through. This dive hood is available in numerous size ranges from X-small to XX-large. Furthermore, Neo Sport also offers 3/2mm, 5/3mm, and 7/5mm models.

• Thickness: 3/2mm, 5/3mm, 7/5mm
• Materials: Neoprene
• Suitable for: Tropical or warm water diving

Key Features:

• The large bib easily tucks under your wetsuit and keeps water out.
• Trimmable face seal provides a custom fit.
• Covers chin and forehead without obstructing the mask or regulator.
• Wide range of thicknesses and sizes available.

Waterproof H1 3/5mm Vented Anatomical Hood

The Waterproof H1 3/5mm anatomical hood combines a 5mm of neoprene protection to the most critical areas where heat loss occurs with a 3mm bib and glide-skin seals to protect the face and neck. It features an innovative Hood Air Venting System (HAVS) that utilizes one-way valves to expel air buildup in the hood.

To ensure water stays out, all of the seals are sewn with durable nylon and glued for extra durability and strength. It can be used for either cold or warm water diving, with sizes from XS to XXL.

• Thickness: 3/5mm
• Materials: Nylon II neoprene rubber
• Suitable for: Warm and cold water diving

Key Features:

• Anatomical shape provides an ergonomic and comfortable fit that few hoods can match.
• 5mm dual-layered protection in critical heat loss areas.
• Watertight glide-skin seal prevents water from seeping in.
• Seals are sewn with nylon and glued for extra longevity.

O’Neill Thinskins 1.5mm Hood

Despite being designed for surfing and other such board sports, the O’Neill Thinskins is also optimal for warm-water diving and snorkeling. This scuba hood is made from 1.5mm metal-lite nylon II neoprene which protects a diver’s head against both harmful UV rays at the surface and the cold underwater.

The chinstrap easily stretches to fit and keeps the mask snug and secure around the base of the face. Overall, the O’Neill Thinskins features a simplistic design that makes donning and doffing it very easy. Like other O’Neill wetsuit hoods, this scuba beanie comes in numerous sizes from XS to XL.

• Thickness: 1.5mm
• Materials: Nylon II neoprene
• Suitable for: Warm water diving

Key Features:

• 50% stretch factor neoprene that fits all shape sizes.
• Flat-lock stitched seam construction is highly durable and non-chafing.
• Provides added warmth and UV protection.
• Durable material that is compression and abrasion-resistant.

Mares 6.5mm Trilastic Diving Hood

If you are diving in chilly conditions (<15°C) then you need a thick dive hood to keep your head warm, and this 6.5mm hood from Mares will do just the job. Mares is a reputable manufacturer of scuba equipment, and this is an extremely high-quality product.

Made from a trilastic mix, it features a low-compression neoprene at the top and 3mm of neoprene around the bib and face. The super stretchy neoprene used on the sides and neck area of the hood makes donning and doffing a cinch. The interior lining of the hood is made of Sapphire plush which is designed to insulate the head. You can get the Mares 6.5mm Trilastic hood in sizes ranging from XS to XL.

• Thickness: 6.5mm
• Materials: Neoprene
• Suitable for: Cold water diving

Key Features:

• Highly elastic panels provide unbeatable comfort.
• 6.5mm hod with 3mm bib and face seal.
• Low compression neoprene material used at the top of the hood.
• Sapphire plush interior lining enhances heat retention and comfort.

Bare 7mm UltraWarmth Dry Scuba Diving Hood

It’s crucial that you keep your body warm to extend your bottom time, and this 7mm dive hood from Bare is up to that task. It uses advanced Celliant infrared technology to retain heat. Combined with the Elasteck outer fabric and Celliant inner fabric, this hood can react to your body’s heat, converting it to infrared energy and directing it back to your body. This sounds like something straight out of a James Bond movie.

Furthermore, the Bare UltraWarmth is blind-stitched and double glued to ensure that it lasts a very long time. It also has a trimmable face to provide a custom fit. This dive hood also includes a mask strap grip pad behind the back to keep this mask secured on the face. Its innovative technology will serve to keep you warm, and it is one of the best scuba diving hoods available. Sizes offered range from S to XXL.

• Thickness: 7mm
• Materials: Celliant-lined neoprene rubber and nylon
• Suitable for: Cold water diving

Key Features:

• Blind-stitched and double glued seams are extremely durable.
• High-loft Celliant inner fabric and Elastic outer fabric retains an incredible amount of heat.
• Lets trapped air escape without letting water enter.
• Neck seal meets with drysuit seal or wetsuit collar to form a watertight seal.

Best Scuba Diving Hoods – Buying Guide

Materials

Most scuba equipment is made using neoprene, so it shouldn’t come as a surprise that dive hoods are also made from it. The reason is that neoprene is a highly flexible material that is effective at insulating heat and provides some buoyancy. The secret to this is that tiny bubbles are trapped in the neoprene material, and these bubbles can retain heat and help divers stay afloat at the surface.

Additionally, you can also find thinner dive hoods made from lycra. This material is ideal for snorkeling or diving in warm water by protecting the head from the sun’s UV rays. It can also be worn underneath a neoprene dive hood to provide even more insulation. Tech materials featuring a combination of synthetic-lined inners and nylon outers are also being used to provide excellent heat retention in 7mm cold water scuba hoods.

Warm vs. Cold Water Dive Hoods

The colder the temperature of the water you will be diving in, the thicker the hood you will need to effectively keep you warm. If you’re unsure of how thick a dive hood should be, here is a general rule to follow:

• 70°F (21°C) – 1-3mm thickness.
• 60-70°F (15.5-21°C) – 4-5mm thickness.
• 50-60°F (10-15.5°C) –  6-7mm thickness.

Many people are surprised at how thick the recommended dive hoods are at the respective temperatures. After all, 60-70°F still seems like T-shirt weather on land. However, water is 20 times more effective at decreasing the body’s temperature, which is why even seemingly “warm” water can be dangerous if you are not adequately protected.

Furthermore, a dive hood’s heat retention capabilities is also determined by its design. The majority of cold water scuba hoods include an insulated neck and a large bib that can be tucked under your wetsuit to prevent water flow. Many hoods are also designed to fit around the jaw and forehead without obstructing your mask and regulator. This ensures the minimum amount of skin is exposed to cold water as possible.

Conversely, warm water hoods are not only thinner, but they cover less of the face compared to a cold water hood. They tend not to come with a large bib, and some will be made from nylon or lycra instead of neoprene. These materials are not as insulating, however they are easier to put on and less restrictive. You can even wear it for snorkeling to protect your head from harmful UV rays, stingers, or other irritants.

Sizing

In order for a dive hood to be of any use to you, it must fit snugly over your head and part of your face to keep water from flowing in. It shouldn’t be too tight that it’s restrictive or uncomfortable. Many modern scuba hoods are made from ultra-stretchy neoprene. This flexibility makes it possible for divers to get the perfect fit that is both comfortable and able to keep water from entering.

Even though many hoods are simply slipped over the head, there are dive hoods that have zippers along the back, as well as hook and clip straps beneath the chin that secure at the side of the face. These types of scuba hoods are worth considering if you have long hair that makes donning and doffing traditional dive hoods difficult.

Frequently Asked Questions

What does it mean if a dive hood is 5/3mm?

You may have seen some dive hoods with more than one thickness measurement. What does that mean? It just means that the dive hood has different thicknesses depending on the area. In the case of 5/3, it means that the thickest parts will be 5mm thick, and the thinnest is 3mm thick. Typically, the thin parts are the bib and seals where it can be tucked underneath something to keep water from seeping in.

How effective are dive hoods at preventing hypothermia?

Approximately 60% of the body’s heat loss occurs from the head, and an alarming amount is lost from the extremities as well. Most divers have enough sense to dive with a wetsuit, however the importance of a dive hood and gloves should not be overlooked either.

Even a drop in body temperature of just a few degrees can result in hypothermia in cold-water conditions. Thus, aside from a wetsuit, the dive hood is arguably the most important piece of equipment that keeps heat from escaping the body and preventing hypothermia.

How do I equalize with a scuba hood on?

Some divers struggle to equalize while descending with a hood on. The issue is that the hood is fit too snug against the outer ear which prevents water from entering. This can be fixed by sliding the finger under the hood close to the ear to let water in the ear canal. Another method is to cut a hole near the ear canal inside the hood through the lining so that water can move freely while still keeping the outer fabric intact.

Do I need a dive hood with a bib?

Whether a bib is necessary or not depends on the design and type of wetsuit you are wearing. For the most part, hoods that come with a bib can be tucked under the wetsuit to keep water from seeping in, keeping the diver warm. However, some dry suits will come with an insulated neck that is not compatible with bibs, and in that case a long-necked hood is a better option.

How do I take care of my dive hood?

You can clean your hood the same way you’d clean any other piece of scuba equipment. After a dive, rinse the scuba hood thoroughly with fresh water to get rid of any salt residue. Salt will not only degrade your hood over time, but it can irritate you on the next dive if it hasn’t been washed off. Do not machine wash or use detergent.

After rinsing, leave your scuba hood out to dry in a well-ventilated, shaded area that is out of direct sunlight. Once it has been air-dried, store it in a cool, dry place where it won’t be squashed under significant pressure or weight. This helps it to avoid deterioration or deformities. If you do not dry it properly before storage, the lingering moisture can lead to mold growth.

Taking good care of your scuba equipment will prolong its life so that you can wear it for years before you need to replace it.

Closing Thoughts

If you plan on diving for an extended period of time, you should highly consider using a scuba diving hood. As much as 60% of the body’s heat loss comes from the head, so it is crucial that you keep it covered up and insulated. Whether you are diving in cold or warm water, you can benefit from wearing a dive hood.

Compared to air, water is 20x more effective at removing heat from the body. Your body will have to work extra hard to replace this lost warmth, causing you to feel fatigued more quickly and decreasing your bottom time. Even in warm water, the water can quickly cause you to start shivering. Many people are often surprised at how low their body temperature drops even in “warm” water.

Don’t find out the hard way how important a dive hood is to keeping your body warm while diving. Get one of the scuba hoods in the list above that is suitable for the type of water you are diving in and stay warm!